Off to the right of the gravel parking lot at the First Buttress is the obvious and impressive 'Big Roof". Great bouldering abounds here and several difficult routes start here as well. This is a great place to hang evidenced by the abundance of fire soot mixed in with the sand at the base. Several people I know have found perfectly intact arrow heads in the dirt below the Big Roof. Obviously climbers weren't the first folks to dig hanging here. You can easily imagine native hunting groups swapping stories and passing the peace pipe. In fact at times you can almost still feel them there. Under the Big Roof you will finds the routes; Bronco Billys and Guanos Dias as well as the imposing and difficult roof routes; Welcome to China and Double Time at Sue's Place. Fabulous climbing particularly when it is scorching hot out or raining. Fun in the dry and shady climbing.
When looking at the Big Roof there is a prominent crack through the roof that is shapped like a bombay Vee slot. That is 'Welcome to China' 5.12. 15 feet to the right is an astounding S shapped thin crack that splits the entire roof. This route is 'Double time at Sue's Place'. Start from under the Big Roof and ascend either 'Bronco Billy's' or 'Guanos Dias' to the base of the roof. Set what ever gear you feel comfortable with, grab the first hold...[more]
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