Mountain Project: Climbing Gunnison

The right side of the first buttress is a slightly lesser known area than the left. It is set back a bit and so doesn't get as much traffic. The climbs are usually a bit more meandering. On the other hand, many of them have more than one pitch which makes them interesting. This is a great place in the hotter summer months since it faces a touch north and has many nooks and crannies for shade.

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for First Buttress:

The Jackal 5.7 Trad, 2 pitches, 200 feet Sun Deck

Kathy's Corner 5.10a R Trad, 1 pitch, 70 feet The Upper Wall

Sasafrass 5.10a Trad, 1 pitch, 170 feet The Upper Wall

Oh Mama Mama 5.10c Trad, 3 pitches, 270 feet, Grade II Sun Deck

Whiskey Crack 5.10c/d Trad, 2 pitches, 250 feet Sun Deck

Question of Balance 5.11 Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 80 feet Baby Face / Middle Wall

Double Time at Sue's Place 5.12 Trad, 1 pitch, 60 feet The Big Roof

Christine's Dream 5.12 Trad, 1 pitch, 140 feet The Upper Wall

Featured Route For First Buttress

Whiskey Crack - the Tom Pulaski 5.10 testpiece

Whiskey Crack 5.10c/d CO : Gunnison : ... : Sun Deck

Whiskey Crack is an absolute classic and one of the original Taylor Canyon test pieces. In my day, if you could lead Whiskey Crack you had arrived.The climbing of crux pitch involves steep technical face climbing and thin crack work over small wired pro. The tendency is to try to snug into the v grove for security. But the key is to stay on the outside. This is a stellar route....[more] Browse More Classics in CO

Comments on First Buttress

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By phil broscovak
From: Boo-older, Co.
Apr 9, 2008

Scott you are correct the site needs to be restructured a wee bit as it is misleading the way it is.

I would propose that the 1st Buttress be broken into the following areas: Parking lot wall (including all the routes from Inner Space thru Whiskey Dick), Sun Deck (Tourist Attraction thru Left Hand Mantel), Big Roof (Oh Mama Mama thru Double Time), Baby Face / Middle Wall {Kindergarten thru Question of Balance, And the Upper Wall (Aphrodite thru Kathy's Corner).

All those in favor type aye.

By YDPL8S
Apr 9, 2008

AAARRRGGGHH! Aye me droogies! I think if we could come up with some pics of the different sections you propose (that John Peterson takes some pretty good shots) it might make it easier to discuss.

By John Peterson
Apr 9, 2008

Cool! I've always wanted to be a droog. Once the term is over (just 4 more weeks!!) I'll borrow a good camera and get some nice shots for you guys and we'll make MP the place to go for Gunnison area climbing.

Oh yeah, "AYE!".

By phil broscovak
From: Boo-older, Co.
Apr 10, 2008

Thanx you groovy admin dudes. You rock!

By YDPL8S
Apr 10, 2008

Here, Here! I wish I could get that kind of response out of my insurance company!

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First Buttress

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The Classics