P1 - nice ballsy run-out face climbing to the right onto the arete for a .11+ crux. sweet! belay on face under obvious splitter crack., 130'.
P2 - climb splitter for about 120', belay on ledge with boulder on it., .11+.
P3 - climb .10 hands for 120' to a crack switch, belay on arete.
P4 - crux! climb up and through vertical to slightly overhanging 30' peg crack, .12a crux is at the bolt. then turn into the right crack system of Katchina Wings. 150'
P5 -.climb up big right facing corner system for about 170'. .10 crux is a o.w. layback about 10' over the gear if any...not that tough. Belay under roof or climb the final 40' of easy 5.7-.8 to the terrace. Traverse terrace to the overlook. Drink beers!
The best crack route I have tried thus far, but shorter than "Stoned Oven"!!! Sustained at the grade!
Location
Same approach of easy climbing or free solo to ledge of Journey Home. Look for fixed nut on wall to the right of Journey and bolts. Must surmount 5' boulder at the start.
Protection
Triple or quadruple fingers, double hands, one #4 cam, nuts, 8-10 runners and 4 draws. 70m rope.
By Rob Kepley From: Westminster,CO Jun 9, 2009 rating: 5.12- R
Yep, sick route for sure. This was my first trip to the Black! Climbed it with Jay on second day down there. Great sustained climbing the entire way. Better have your head screwed on right for the first pitch. Jay sent it in style! Nice one dude.
By Will Anglin From: Gunnison, CO Aug 16, 2009 rating: 5.12a R
Definitely a great route, but be ready for sub-par rock quality as soon as you pass the crux of P4.
You can up the quality of the top-out by bypassing Katchina Wing's final offwidth on a left leaning 5.10+ hand finger crack (see topo). This puts you near the top of Journey home and all but the last hundred feet to the exit ramp remain pretty clean.
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