One of the best climbs in the canyon. Steep, sustained, and with excellent exposure.
Pitch 1: 5.8 120 ft. Start with a short lie back in a right-facing corner and gain good hands in the chimney. Continue up double cracks in the chimney with great jamming until you can exit right to a large ledge and belay.
Pitch 2: 5.10 150 ft. To the right of the belay is a beautiful, smooth wall with double thin cracks leading up to a roof. Traverse out onto the face and climb the twin cracks, great climbing and jamming, protects well with small wires and cams. Reach the roof and traverse right utilizing an excellent, horizontal, hand crack, passing a useless bolt at your feet (stepping on it is cheating). Pull around the roof to an optional belay. Continue up the crack above that leads to a right-facing corner and belay on a small ledge.
Pitch 3: 5.10 150 ft. Climb the excellent crack up the dihedral in smooth dike rock, ring locks through hands. Gain a stance below a roof in the gray rock and pass it with hands. Continue to the top and belay.
Descend to the right down the gully with two double rope raps from chockstones.
Location
One of the furthest routes to the right on Upper Mother's Buttress. Scramble a short distance up the drainage between Middle and Upper Mother's until you see a short, right-facing dihedral leading into a chimney with double hand cracks in the back.
By Jesse Bernier From: Grand Junction, Co Sep 7, 2008 rating: 5.10b/c
This is by far one of the best routes in Unaweep Canyon. A must do to realize that Unaweep isn't complete choss. Long, sustained, and exposed on great rock. After today you can rap safely down the gully with one 60 meter rope. There are now good slings on the giant chock that you used to pass on the second rappel. 3 60 meter raps.
The first pitch is the best 5.8 I've done in Unaweep. The anchor at the top is good and it's easy to get back down. A 70 reaches the ground from the ledge. We used some bigger camalots (a #4 and #5) - not required but makes it easier to protect. An excellent pitch for a 5.8 leader.
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