Awesome route. Exposed and steep! This has got to be one of the most classic splitters in the desert. If you don't climb 5.12 you can easily aid the crux pitch and toprope it. The rest of the pitches are very doable and offer some great desert crack climbing on a sweet tower. First free ascent by Alan Lester and Pete Takeda.
Piz's comments were pretty much right on but thought I would try to add some more detail and add the route to the database._
Approach: Two options: 1. Go to the campground and head to the rim. There's a viewpoint building right above the spire. Fix a rope from a tree which you can back up with a good stopper. This is the preferred approach and definitely the easiest. 2. Hike in from the Monument Canyon trailhead, approximately 2 hour approach.
Medicine Man is the obvious line up the center of the east face.
Done in 4 or 5 pitches. Intermediate belay on pitch 2 is probably a good idea but not necessary, I like the way it gives you a rest before the 5.11 section. Described here as 5 pitches.
Pitch 1: (5.10) Obvious start up crumbly bottom layer into nice handcrack in left-facing corner. Pro: doubles #.4-#2._
Pitch 2: (5.10+) Continue up crack in corner and exit roof to the left to intermediate belay or continue. Tread carefully on the death block that is mysteriously lodged in roof. Pro: 6 or 7 #.75, stopper wire or keyhole hanger for 1/4" bolt, and sling for broken, half-inserted pin.
Pitch 3: (5.11)(Using intermediate belay or can be combined with P2). Layback flake with bad feet. Watch for loose stuff above flake. Pro: #.5, #.75, 2 - #1, & 2 - #2._
Pitch 4: (5.12b) The crux pitch. Jam obvious splitter through small roof. Nice kneebar in roof for no-hands rest before pulling crux. Pro: 8 #1s, 3 #2, 1 #.5 & 1 #.75.
Pitch 5: (5.10) Up corner and traverse left through roof. Continue up crack to summit. Watch for loose stuff before and immediately after roof. Pro: 2 #.3, 2 #.4, 2 #.5, 2 #.75, 2 #1, 4 #2, 3 #3, 1 #3-1/2. I can't exactly remember what I used but I remember bringing a lot and using a lot because I was flamed from the previous pitch and sketched by the loose stuff above the roof. Small stuff under roof and bigger stuff up high.
Descent: Two raps from Fast Draw anchors and jug back up your fixed line to the rim.
Protection
Camalots 2 #.3, 3 #.4, 4 #.5, 7 #.75, 8 #1, 4 #2, 3 #3, 1 #3-1/2. Stopper wire or keyhole hanger for 1/4" rivet. Sling to tie off pin. Shoulder length slings. Two ropes.
You're looking at Medicine Man 5.12b on the south face of the spire.
Pitch 1- 5.9/10 kinda sporty with some face holds down low. belay on nice ledge with existing anchor. nice warm up pitch (~90 ft) possibly tricky gear placement down low gear- purple cam to a yellow cam
Pitch 2- 5.11+ (maybe) thin layback corner straight up, chimney moves and out left side of roof to a beautiful lieback finish. great pitch! (~90 ft)gear- purple to yellow cam probably two of each
Pitch 3- 5.12b thin hands straight up in a perfect zig zagging thin hands splitter rest comes at mid height then more thin hands to a small roof and final move to belay, awesome! (~90 ft)gear- about 8 red cams and 1 or 2 yellow, if you don't use them all on the pitch you can back up the pin with the extras (reds).
Pitch 4- 5.9 weird but good, up and left at roof, follow awkward moves to the summit, good pitch for the thinker. belay on summit from giant chain rap anchors. two ~90 ft raps to base of fast draw. Gear- bring what you have (not the 8 red cams) maybe a finger-size piece or two up to yellow cam
*Note it is possible to set up a traverse from the top of Sentinel Spire to the cliff line (~40 ft), just climb Fast Draw after rapping in from there and proceed). I didn't use it to get off but my partner has seen it done.
By Jesse Zacher From: Grand Junction, Co Feb 6, 2007 rating: 5.12-
Bolts have been replaced. Everything is bomber. Especially on pitch two, a bolt was added around the corner. Great Route! Too much fixed gear. 3 stuck cams. Anyone have a hacksaw? 5 #1 Camalot and 2-3 #2's for pitch 3.
One of the best. There is no longer fixed gear on the route. Belays all solid. I found the last roof as hard as the second. We used 4 green, 5 red, two yellow, 2 blue Camalot.
Sentinel Spire
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