Otto's Route 

The first chipped route in the state! More of a face climb than a crack climb. In recent years this route has been closed for nesting birds late winter to mid-summer, so call the headquarters first to see if it is open. Ottos route can get very crowded, especially on weekends at high season. Because the descent line overlaps the route, be prepared to encounter other parties and take care to not throw your ropes down on anyone or knock rocks. Also, because Ottos is north facing, this is a poor choice for mid-winter or cold spring days, but can be climbed mid-summer without getting heat stroke.

This route can be rappelled in two raps with double 60m cords. The first one heads north from the summit anchors to the top of the Time Tunnel. Scramble down to the anchors at the beginning of the tunnel (top of pitch two). From here, rap directly off the north side to the ground. This rap does not follow the climbing route. When there are mulitple parties on the route, this rappel is the best option as you will not be in anybody's way or knock rocks on anybody. The last rappel requires 50m cords.

I thought the second pitch was the crux-I was struggling on that much more than on the summit overhangs. The second to last pitch was no harder than 5.6, not 5.8 as at least the Bjornstad guide indicates.

Great unique route, definitely 8+ or maybe even 9-

Funny how everyone's perceptions are different. My wife and I both expected this route to be much harder. I' wouldn't call it any more than a 7+. The only real interesting moves were the last three--and that's because it's so darn sandy and worn from too much traffic.

I agree with Andrew. I thought the second pitch was the crux.

Let's see, we just climbed this on 4/12/03.

What a surreal route. A must do if in the area.

The third pitch Off-Width is definitely size-dependent: Tall / slender people will fare better than chubbier / shorter ones. It is burly for sure, but protects very well with large cams and a sling around a chockstone.

The last pitch felt insecure. The chopped holds have turned into gritty sloppers. The reaches ae loooong and the pins looked just O.K. Felt like 5.9 to us.

Otto was a wild man, he climbed this in Cowboy boots!

Ironic that he was responsible for both chopping a 5 pitch route up the most beautiful formation in the Monument and leading the charge to turn the area into a National Monument thus ensuring its preservation.

Perhaps the same thing will one day happen with the Sports Park, NOT!

WT

I updated the route to modified as it should most definitely be.

I think its pretty silly to blacklist this route. Yes, the holds are not natural, but since it occurred *way* before there was even a thing called climbing ethics, try as I might I can't get too worked up over the defacement.

I never really looked at Otto's Route as a climbing route anyway. It's more like a super-advanced trail or via ferrata to a great summit.

In a word, Bob, the answer to your question is: history. No one is going to argue that Otto's route has stellar climbing... in fact if you ask me, the climbing blows. The reason it's classic is because Otto had a vision, that by the standards of the early-1900s was insane. It wasn't ethically appalling back then to use these methods to climb. Its amazing to climb this route and think of the determination and obsessiveness that drove Otto to the top. The route is more of a museum relic... that and the summit is pretty darn cool. The sport park developers and chippers of today know better.

I agree, Andrew, that I'm not worked up or disturbed about the drilled holes on this route when I'm climbing it (since it did occur so long ago) but my intent of placing it on the modified route list was to back our stance of indiscriminate classification of modified routes. "Blacklisting" it was not meant to deter people from the climb, but just to make more people aware of the chipping issue on the whole.

Excellent !!! Great Feel Good climb. The final move onto the roof is blistering ....Kudos Mr. Otto.

The only rappel that requires double ropes is the last one (ie. to the ground), but a single 70m rope will get you down with a foot or two to spare. Less to pack in and out, less to haul, and less to drag over scree-covered ledges (helmets most highly recommended).

Rappelling: Ok you could Rap the whole route with 1 60 or 70 if you did 4 raps; however its probably better to do it in 2 2rope Rappels. Use 2 60 meters to rappel from the summit to the time tunnel. Hike the time tunnel to belay station 2 then 2 60's to the ground (50meters will not work). This is probably better then trying the rap from the summit to lunchbox ledge.

Ol' Otto you one crazy REDNECK! any ways did the route [Memorial] Weekend 04. I have to say the route was the easiest "5.8ish" [I've] ever done. Compared to the Durrance on DT which is 5.7ish this is a walk in the park. Little exposure, Monster "HOLES" some how perfectly placed.. Rapping down and a family of 5 having a picnic after time tunnel. All other aside in 1911 on the last pitch wearing cowboy boots with a [chisel] and hand drill in the other hand I must say Otto you one crazy REDNECK!

The crux move is definitely harder than 5.8. I've done this route 4 times now, and it feels like a burly 9 move to me. With that said, it's a great route that demands a helmet given all the other parties that are going to be going up and down it when you are. It truly is a proud formation, especially when viewed from the east. So good!!!!!

After climbing this route on 1/09/06, I wanted to provide a warning on some of the gear mentioned above. The chockstone on pitch 2 is about to fall out. When I got to the chimney, the chockstone was slung with a piece of webbing and a cord. I clipped the cord and pull tested it. The cord ended up at my knees and the chockstone dropped a little bit. It should not be trusted. Fortunately, the gear there is great (I placed a 3.5 and a 4.0 camalot). I also could not find a good placement on the last pitch for a 2.0 tri-cam before the pins. A larger tri-cam might have worked.

Also, it appears that the pins on the last pitch have been recently replaced, but I don't know how recent. They were all shiny and new looking.

In my opinion, the position on the last pitch is great, but the climging is uninteresting due to the drilled pockets. However, without the pockets the climbing would be much harder on the last pitch as well as the second pitch.

Suggestion: Somebody take 4 quicklinks up next time you go, to place at the rappel points. They're all singles, just think it'd be prudent to have two links on each rap station, instead of one.

I'll do it if nobody else will. Thanks

If anyone is interested in speed climbing possibilities of this route, my friend Andres and I simul-climbed it in 10 minutes and 24 seconds on Nov 9, 07. It could definitely be done in less, I was having to do the mountaineer's rest step on the slab of the last pitch due too lack of cardio fitness.

Hell yeah, Jovan! I wonder what the speed record is? I bet it's been free soloed pretty fast.

I don't know. The only other people I know of that have tried speed climbing it did it in twenty something minutes (they couldn't remember, it was back in the late 80s) and 18 minutes. I personally could not go as fast soloing due to no margin for error. (Not that simul-climbing leaves much room either.)

That is a good point, the rock is sandy enough that it is not impossible to slip.

Don't get too excited it's been done in well under 10 minutes. Probably gets speed climbed more often than you think. What's the going speed for car to car?

Why speed climb the thing at all. One section of 5.8 the rest a sandy mess.

Fixed gear alert/info: the second anchor has one of of its two expansion bolts moving around a bit in the hole

Ryan, what is the fastest time you've heard of, just curious what the record is?

Nothing comfirmed but I've heard of ascents in the 7-9 minute range. Talked with a friend this morning who remembers their time being 8min40sec but it was quite a few years ago. I always remembered him saying 7min something.

Sandy mess, Jesse? It's desert rock, so of course there is sand, but it's got to be one of the cleaner routes in the desert and the climbing throughout is actually quite enjoyable. With the abundant protection and easy climbing, it's perfect for speed climbing. You speed climb to learn specific techniques for moving fast. You learn to be efficient as a team. You learn what is possible which gives you confidence to tackle a more ambitious project. For those who venture onto the larger faces, speed often equals safety and just like everything it must be practiced. Otto's is great practice. There are plenty of big routes around the world that require fast efficient climbing on nothing harder than 5.9.

After much deep contemplation, I have developed the most efficient roped party technique to speedclimb Otto's.

This latest advancement in speedclimbing technology was inspired after watching a program on Niagara Falls daredevils....

My system requires only three components. It's genius lies in its simplicity!

The use of a 20m cord (the minimum to facilitate descent)
A small infant (optimally less than 15 kg).
An impenetrable sphere.

Now, I know a lot of you ethical types are already thinking "taint". But, I find my system really comes into its own on the descent. When the ball doubles as a retrievalbe chalk.

The times savings from THIS BELAY ALONE!!!! should be enough SHATTER current speed records.

Climbed it two days ago. Ice at the second belay and getting up into the Time Tunnel. Cold Toes. I was shocked to find foot prints in the snow patches up there. Some wizard left the register open and it was filled with water. I poured it out, however the book and contents are soaked. I did not bring it down since I did not have a bag or anything, and the register might be saved if left to dry out. I am sure it will get replaced this summer, at some point. Just plan ahead with a bag or something. Lot of trash in that box.

A most excellent introduction to desert tower climbing. Lots of mellow climbing to get to the last three or four pumpy crux moves (5.8).

Some comments:

We climbed over Labor Day weekend, topping out at 10:30AM. Everything below the last pitch was in the shade the entire time.

A light rack is all you need: singles of BD 0.5 - 4 cams, nothing smaller. Single (or less) set of small/med nuts. 2-3 tricams (black or smaller). Lots of shoulder-length slings.

First pitch seemed harder than I was led to believe, but the hardest moves are no harder than 5.6. Tie in long to the first anchor (chains + piton), and keep going around the corner to a comfy belay stance.

A BD 3 is useful for backing up the chockstone (it's fine, the webbing around it isn't) at the bottom of the p2 OW, a 4 is good higher up. As described in the Supertopo topo, it's possible to stem around the opening of the OW. The climbing is a little more delicate (5.8?), but the significant reduction in the grovel factor is well worth it.

Leave the big gear behind on the ledge at the top of the Time Tunnel. The last two pitches can be done with tricams (I had black, pink, red), a handful of nuts and/or small cams (BD 0.5, 0.75), and a few shoulder-length draws for the fixed gear. (The crux pitch would've been a lot easier without a full set of cams hanging off my shoulder.)

The crux pitch was considerably easier than it looks from the belay. The steps are worn but secure, and there are a couple of tricam placements in the handmade pockets if you desire. The last few moves are well-protected (3x pitons) and juggy. 5.8, but it seemed a little harder after all of the easy climbing leading up to it. Your second will appreciate the use of a long draw on the highest piton.

Following ET's comment, two raps with 2 x 60m ropes leaves 5 feet to spare on the second rap. Watch the loose rock coming down with the rope.

Did this today with my 13 year old daughter and 15 year old son, what a treat! We had a great time, only party on the route. I thought the climbing was a blast, I can't wait to go back and do it again.

If you keep out of the OW and stem the holes, the crux is definitely the last moves on the final pitch (Tobin led this). #4 Camalot in the OW is all you need, you can also clip the ratty sling on the chockstone if you want.

I think I placed about 6 pieces of gear on my leads today (#0.75, 2, 3 and 4 Camalots, a green C3 and #4 Stopper), a few long runners and that is about it.

2 60m raps gets your down. Top to the fixed anchor at the bottom of Time Tunnel, then down looker's left to the ground, about 3 feet to spare. You end up 30 yards south of where you started the route.

We did the approach hike in 45 minutes, beautiful hike by the way.

So, three or four pieces of gear, a couple draws, and balls of steel will get you through this route pretty well :)

Loved this route. It is just barely possible to rappel with one 70 meter rope.

Good fun!! Aside from waiting 45 minutes at each belay we had a great time on this classic. All you really need is that #4 Camalot, a few mid-range cams, half-dozen draws, and some steady nerves on the airy last pitch.

A 70m rope will get you down with 3 raps. On the last rap just be sure to go straight out and not back down the route. Be sure to knot your ends as it is right to the end of the rope!
Great route: Otto had gorilla balls!