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This is Grand Junction's only bona fide sport crag! Just up the trail from the mica mine in Bang's Canyon lies a VERY steep, little crag with about 8 or 9 routes. These routes are HARD. There is one 11a warm-up (locals have been known to call it 10d...), but everything else is 12a-13c. (EDIT: There is also a 10b that went up recently.)
To reach from Grand Jct., turn off Broadway (CO highway 340) onto Rim Rock Drive (the way to the CNM) and go 1 block, then turn left on to D Road, which soon turns into Rosevale Rd. and leads to CS Road (aka Little Park Road). Follow CS Road for approximately 5 miles (8km) to the turnoff to Rough and Bangs Canyons at the first left after the crest of the hill. This is also the trailhead to the Tabeguache Trail. Park at the gravel parking area and hike 1/4 mile (0.4 km) southwest on a rough road to a small canyon. Turn right (Left is Rough Canyon) and walk for 20-30 minutes. Soon you will reach an old mica mine (giant white cave). From there, it's just another 50 meters on the right.
13 Total Routes
Browse More Classics in Bang's Canyon
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Bang's Canyon:
Baby Bang 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII E2 5b Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Choss Master 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
She Bangs 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII E4 6a Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Big Fat Weiners 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Bang and Blame 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- E6 6b Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Liquid Charcoal 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX E6 6b Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Pumping Jesus 5.12d 7c 28 IX E6 6b Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Featured Route For Bang's Canyon
Wormhole V5-6 6C+ CO : Grand Junction area : Bang's Canyon
This route is marked purple in the picture.Sit start low in the cave, right next to a little, black boulder, on a flake that looks unstable but is tough as iron. (I've been starting with my right hand on the flake and my left on a sloper right next to the hold.)Pull up and lock off hard with your right hand and move out to an awesome incut crimp, bump up and left to a better crimp. Throw a drop knee and shoot up into the crack above, a very low percentage move. Continue to follow the the crack/s...[more] Browse More Classics in CO
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