My second lead at the Cliffs. I found the overhang difficult to commit to and therefore wore out my arms early. The climbing eases up until 3rd to 4th bolt. I moved far right and put it pro therefore not clipping the 4th bolt. Easy if you are a solid 5.7 leader a little bit more spicy for a 5.6 leader.
I actually thought that "Another Unamed Billy Bob Route", which goes at 5.7+ in the guidebook, was easier than this route. Pulling the overhang at the start of this one can feel insecure unless you find the nice bomber hold inside the crack on the right. Alternatively, jam in the crack.
By Jimn Seiler From: Denver, CO May 12, 2007 rating: 5.8+
I thought the crux was about 2/3rds of the way up and was not a 5.7. I don't know if I do the routes correctly up at Table or if the ratings are the most inconsistent I've ever seen. I climbed this with 3 others who also agreed that this was in the 5.8 range. I sent my girlfriend up this for her first sport lead and she got her money's worth.
Very slippery. Can place a 0.4 C4 in the crack before standing up to clip the first bolt.
By Julius Beres From: Boulder, CO Sep 13, 2008 rating: 5.8
Like the previous poster, I placed a cam before the first bolt. Once I pulled the move it wasn't hard, but this rock is really polished. Compared to the Overhang area and climbs in Boulder Canyon, the polished rocks make this feel much harder.
By Julius Beres From: Boulder, CO Sep 13, 2008 rating: 5.8
One more comment. The "beta" photo that goes along with this has the caption "# 7 in the photo"... BUT this phote appears for several climbs. Number 7 is the 5.9 "This Ain't Naturita, Pilgrim". I actually did that first thinking it would be an easy 7 warm up and was a bit surprised at the stiff climbing for what I thought was 5.7 grade... however, this route wasn't substantially easier. I would say if the other one is a 5.9, this one is more like 5.8.