Fun, well-protected route that takes lots of pro and has two bolts (from adjoining route) that you can clip if you'd like. The crack cuts Left of the "67" that's painted half way up the rock. Can't miss it.
Protection
Standard rack to 3.5", with larger cams for anchors (no fixed anchors). #11 hex does nicely at the anchor. Walk off right.
This is a nice little warm up route on the right side of Industrial Buttress. Great pro in the back of the dihedral and good large cracks above. There's a fixed cam about two thirds of the way up that looks okay, but it's easy to back up too. There aren't many cracks for an anchor up top, so look for some big boulders to sling.
Great pro the whole way on the climb which you can place from good ledged, you could bivy up on a couple of them if you get stuffed. I felt the crux was down low with a nice lieback move. At the top, there are a two cracks the one on the left looks a little chossy, I took the one on the right that had the fixed cam in it, solid rock on that side. For the anchors I used a 4 foot sling on a big boulder/horn and a bomber 3.5 BD cam in a crack to the east of the boulder. Great first 5.7 trad lead.
By Doug Redosh From: golden, CO Apr 6, 2005 rating: 5.7
Crux is down low at the bolts. Now, why were they placed right next to a crack?
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