An intriguing 80-foot, twisted, little, granite spire that invites you to check it out as you drive around the upper parts of Golden Gate Canyon SP. It seems fairly unique in Colorado in my wanderings. Done a long time ago based upon the ancient bolt on top. This is the obvious line but there are others if you linger. From Panorama Point continue on the dirt road to the Lazy Squaw Ranch. Find this obvious spire on the hill behind the Ranch. Get a bearing. Hike up through a forest 20-25 minutes.
This is the path of least resistance:
Start on what seemed to be the SW face. Follow a line of 3 bolts up a face (crux), angle R and curl around to the SE face up easy, broken rock, pass an ancient bolt, and find yourself on top.
Rap 80 feet from a fixed anchor. Because this anchor is basically centered on top, the rope pull can require a bit of a pull.
You can extend your day with a wander (bushwhack) L to the second buttress of Mt Thoridin as we did that day.
Protection
Used a blue Alien, small wire, #2 Friend, another Alien, 3 QD, 1 longer sling, 50m rope.
The crux seemed to be before the first bolt to me, protected by good TCU. There is a chain on the anchor at the top that makes pulling the rope easy, it seems some of the bolts may have been recently replaced as well.
Bolts are somewhat difficult to spot from the base - look carefully along SW face for slab that is maybe 20' above an overhanging section. I started right of the overhang and traversed left towards the bolts - protected well but there was an unfortunate amount of what I assume is bat shit and piss which made this less than desirable. A little ways past the 3 bolts there are 2 more on a ledge that can be used as a belay if you do it in 2 pitches - which will reduce rope drag and make it a little easier to hear your partner.
Do NOT park at the Harmsen Ranch and then walk up to the spire...I just recieved a $50 ticket for parking here from the rangers. I didn't block the gate even, but they decided to ticket my partner and I anyway...great way to end a great day of climbing! NOT!
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