A month ago, the community experienced the tragic loss of Craig Luebben. This route is a personal memorial for our friend, husband, daddy, partner, and local hero. I scoped this route several years ago, wondering how to access the overhanging stem corner at the top. During my guidebook research, I spotted some evidence of an ascent on the first pitch. Over beers one night, for some reason, Craig and I were discussing this wall. To my surprise, the ratty anchors I saw in the first hundred feet were his from many years prior. To my knowledge, this was the only project of his in the Canyon. He also had the vision of going all the way up, but back-burnered the idea due to bigger and better things (um, like all over the world!). Once I took an interest, however, he sparked, wanting to complete it with me, ground-up, trad/mixed. Unfortunately we never got around to it. He didn’t remember any details of his initial recon pitch, other than some “fantastic layback flakes in a bright green slab and small gear for pro”. Since this time, two unknown bolted 1 pitch routes were put in this alcove. One just right of our first pitch (10? bolts 5.10), and one on the right wall, right of the chimney/gully.
This route and the style in which we established it, was inspired by Craig, and his seize the moment attitude…because someday may never come....
As far as the route name goes, well, I will just say that there were several special occasions we felt Craig was climbing with us on our FA. Thanks, Craig, for your help....
DISCLAIMER
Wear Helmets. We are tentatively giving this route an R rating mostly due to the adventurous character of the route. Though the hard parts are protected well and not sustained, there are occasional runouts on easy but loose/crumbly rock. Ratings are approximate (i.e. ballpark). This is not your typical Clear Creek Canyon route and should not be taken lightly. Because we established the route ground-up, we didn’t clean the route that much other than the big stuff. There may still be plenty of crap that could come off on you and your partner. Fishermen and lookey-loos WILL be below you by the road or at the bank watching your epic ascent (probably wondering “how you got your ropes up there”). Use a 70m rope.
Getting There
Big Bro Watching (BBW) starts left and around the corner of Solid Gold, identified by a green lichened slab. Park in front of the Doghouse, west side of Tunnel 5 (though you can see the route across the creek at the creekside parking). Approach as you would for Solid Gold. Once at the base, continue with the 4th class “Perverse Traverse” over the water. Follow the line of least resistance and watch for loose rock. If you feel uncomfortable soloing this traverse, either rope up or reconsider continuing with the route at all. You will pass by a bolt at the beginning of the traverse(unknown abandoned route?!), and after some exposed moves, a brushy ledge ramp continues to the slabby base of the route and comfortable staging ledge with single belay bolt.
P1. (5.9-, 100') Scramble up to the start of the unknown bolted route. Continue up and left of the first two bolts (you don’t need them, you can get in gear), to a fixed pin and move left into a blocky left facing corner. Climb through the corner, onto the face and then back left into the left-facing flakes. Laybacking and positive edges lead you to a bolt when the crack disappears. Soo classic! Mantle to a two bolt hanging belay (shared with the bolted route to the right). Watch for loose rock, especially on the lower half of the pitch.
P2. (5.9, 80’) Delicate face moves lead above the belay to a bolt, and up to a crack weakness in an overlap. Crank over (5.9ish) and cruise up blocky terrain (5.5-5.6) to a great belay ledge. Definitely reasonable to link P1 and P2, but you will not be able to see your follower.
P3. (5.10+/11-, 115’) Head for a left-facing, cube-like dihedral. An awkward pull onto a ramp and bolt follows. Continue up the finger crack, steepening to a sequential crux (5.10+) that is well protected. At the top of the crack, traverse over loose broken ledges past two bolts (5.6) and up to a wide crack splitting a bulge. Thuggish moves (5.10, bolt) and crumbly rock! Once over the bulge, hand traverse 30 feet left (maybe only 5.5!?), smearing the crumbly ramp-of-sorts to an uber-exposed hanging belay (aka the Kidney Killer). Good pro can be found for this traverse, and your follower will be grateful.
P4. (5.11, 75’) Step up and left off the belay. Suprisingly tricky and spooky! A small shallow Alien placement may protect a potential factor-2 off of the belay, but you will soon get a bolt. Incredible position! Continue traversing the ledge left (ez..) (ignore the directional-rap-bolt above your head) to a right angling crack through a bulge. Finger and thin hand jams through the bulge (5.10) lead you to a bolt and the gold and brown face (Skid Marks!). Two bolts protect the thin steep face crux (5.11 slightly height dep.), with sharp but strangely solid edges. May have to brush off some bird poo. Continue up easier terrain to the Loft. Belay left on a comfortable ledge and love-seat. (Consider using radios. You will not be able to see or hear your partner once over the bulge, especially while you are cruxin’ on the face!)
P5. (5.10+, 50’) “The Loft”. A lot of moves packed into this little pitch. This follows an overhanging, stem corner to overhung jamming and traversing out the roof. Pro is mostly thin and somewhat tricky to place mid-pitch. Fantastic stemming movement, especially if your legs are long and/or flexible! Keep moving through the slimy hand crack in the roof (#3 cam) and pull around to the most airy belay perch in the canyon.
Now who is gonna haul a drill back up there and bolt the 5.13 overhanging arete!?
Descent Logistics
Two options:
1) rap the route, OR 2) top out, walk to the NE, and rap Solid Gold (theoretical and unconfirmed at time of writing), but this would necessitate another easy pitch to the top with no fixed anchors. Best to have previous knowledge of the SG rap location. Advantage of this is you don’t have to reverse the perverse-traverse, but you would have had to stash your stuff at the base of SG.
The rappels for BBW are a bit complex and borderline acrobatic. Pay attention or you could have an epic situation. May be hard to explain in text, but here are a few tricks for the upper pitches:
While climbing the route, pre-place a runner at P3 anchors and the Loft rap anchors to have something to grab onto when you are coming down and swinging in.
Use an autoblock or prusik backup.
Consider being lowered off of P5. If rapping, get a controlled swing going to be able to grab the anchors.
When rapping P4, you will have to swing to the right to clip the directional bolt (should have fixed biner), that will help guide you into the P3 belay, but you will have to keep your swing going or you will be stuck in space!
When rapping P3, you will come to a ledge, then tension traverse right along the ledges 30 feet to the top of P2.
Knot & Watch your ends!!!! Use a 70 meter rope. a 60m WILL be too short on the P3 rappel.
Protection
Multipitch adventure mindset. Helmet. 70m rope. SR up to #3 Camalot including small wires, healthy selection of stoppers, a few extras in the small to medium cams. Offset nuts and hybrid offset Aliens are helpful and recommended. There are a couple of spots I used a #3.5 Camalot, but is not necessary. (we had Camalots #0.1-#3, Friends 1, 1.25, 1.5, 1.75, and 2, and hybrid Aliens - and was plenty more than enough). Draws, runners, biners, screamers if you don't quite trust the small pro. Radios. All belays are bolted.
Craig Luebben Memorial Fund
Donate to the Craig Luebben Memorial Fund: Any and all assistance is greatly appreciated and will be dedicated to helping his wife Silvia and daughter Giulia.
"You will pass by a bolt at the beginning of the traverse (unknown abandoned route?!)"
Raises hand....that was me. I too envisioned a route going up and through those roofs....that bolt was the belay for my first pitch. I abandoned the project....
Anyway this route is now at the top of my list...anyone want to go with me soon?
Yet another great contribution to the canyon. Can't think of a better way to remember someone who has done so much for our community.
By Derek Lawrence From: Bailey Sep 15, 2009 rating: 5.11 R
First off - Big kudos to Darren for spying this line and putting forth the idea of continuing Craig's initial route. While I might have provided some direction (i.e. can't you just push through that next roof... it doesn't look too hard...) The main impetus was all Darren! Thank You for bringing me in on your idea!
Second - Re the rating.... It seems that exposure adds a couple of letter grades to me. (I don't think that's the case for Darren....) It sure felt to be on the + side of 11 (but still 11). Looking forward to hearing what others think.... (I have left my rating at just 5.11 until I can go back up and check it out again....)
Just to clarify the R rating further, there are no runouts harder than, say, 5.6. So, calling the route "5.11 R" is a little misleading (and only temporary), BUT we just want to emphasize in any way possible the seriousness involved with treading lightly over loose rock in spots, descent logistics, as well as familiarity with trad climbing and placements in Clear Creek stone.
And as Derek noted, I can see the overall difficulty rating being anywhere from 10c to 11b. Subsequent ascents will nail that down.
My buddy Dave and I climbed this route today so I thought I'd help with the ratings:
P1 5.9- P2 5.9 P3 5.10c/d There's a slight advantage if you're taller and there's a fixed nut that takes away a pumpy gear placement that helps a lot P4 5.11a/b The roof before the crux is a little dirty, but the moves are really good and really exposed probably 10d. The actual crux is straight forward if you're tall and tricky but no tougher if your not (mantel). P5 5.10c/d This pitch is really cool great moves, and there's another fixed nut that makes the gear easy and staightforward and the finishing hand/fist traverse is awesome, too.
Overall, great route. It will be 4 stars if it cleans up. The descent is no problem and was set up very well. Just follow the directions. Wear a helmet and climb carefully.
Hi Ida! glad to see you checked out the description.
Ha! I did indeed come prepared with a Big bro on the FA in case the overhanging crack dihedral looming on P5 turned out to be wide. I judged from the ground it to be at least hands but imagined it to be wider. Would it not have been fitting if there were some heinous overhanging OW to cap it off!? But we were pleased to discover once we got there that the crack doesn't get much wider than #3 Camalot. But nonetheless, our Big Bro's presence was there for our ascent, and I would like to think of him grinning along with us about how each pitch manifested.
-darren
By Derek Lawrence From: Bailey Sep 30, 2009 rating: 5.11 R
Hey Ryan - glad you & Dave enjoyed the route!! You seem to confirm my belief about how exposure affects my ratings - but I'm fine with that! :) Mostly just like hearing how you think it is a great route. As I'm sure you know, that matters way more than ratings! Thanks
By Alan Searcy From: Pine, Colorado Nov 16, 2009 rating: 5.11a R
This is really, really, great with a smattering of stellar all over it. Very few places and routes in CC hold a 4 pitch climb of this quality. Yes, my partner pulled off 20" x 8" block leading pitch 3, held it against his chest and then launched it away from me. I like him. The route is actually pretty clean and takes great gear. Well done, Darren! The loft alone is worth the price of admission.
By Alan Searcy From: Pine, Colorado Nov 16, 2009 rating: 5.11a R
It was indeed, a stellar route! We tied pitch 1 & 2 together (5.9 and clean as a whistle. Pitch 3 was 10+ and we cleaned it up a little. Pitch 4 has some really sharp edges in the right-angling crack that could be a problem for some. Face climbing at the end of pitch 4 was definitely 11 in my opinion and the loft was surprisingly solid rock in the hard 10 range. Thanks again for putting it up, Craig would have loved it.
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