The Left Wire crag is a very sunny quiet crag. It's main attraction in C.C.C. is that you can't hear any road noise at all. Although most of the routes are fairly short (toping at about 75-ft) the rock is quite good and fairly easy on the hands. With fourteen mostly moderate routes from 5.7 to 5.12 a mixed climbing experience is a given. The crag has 1 trad, 3 mixed, 2 T.R.'s and 8 fully bolted sport routes. It would be best to bring a standard rack up to #3 Camalots. While the reason for developing the area was based around no crowds and no noise a few must do's exist at this crag. Must do's: 1) Pervade 5.11a: Better than it first looks and quite pumpy. 7 bolts with LO. 2) Show Nuff 5.10a: Climb up jugs (#0.75-#1 cam helpful down low) traverse right on a slab to the bottom of an arete. Climb up the conner for about 10-15 feet before making the crux move left onto a nice scenic slab to the top. 9 bolts with LO. 3) Addicts 5.10a/b: Classic roof climbing moves with an exiting exit for the top. Follow fun face climbing past for bolts to the underside of a huge roof. Note: Cams #0.75-#2 are needed as well as long slings to avoid rope drag. Climb through the roof system passing only one bolt before reaching the anchors. 5 bolts (cams, long slings) LO. 4) Totality of Facts 5.11d: If you like hard and hairy climbing this is it for you. Climb up easy slab to a super crux followed by a spooky run out to reach the final bolt and chains. 5 bolts with LO.
Mega Classic: In this category this crag only hosts one, worth the walk, airy technical pump fest that I feel is Classic. It's called "Night Stick" 5.11b. Began in a right-facing dihedral to a fantastic arete and conner. Be sure to gain a rest before pulling out onto a steep right leaning rail. A few pumpy clips and you are styling. My personal favorite. 8 bolts to LO.
When John Morgan and myself (Luke Childers) climbed out the High Wire and the Wall of Justice we found this fun, little playground which gave way to interesting and pleasant route developing summer. Like I said, it's not the best crag in C.C.C. but it uncrowded, quite, beautiful, moderate and neat. Oh yeah, it's also really nice on colder days.
The best way to reach the Left Wire crag is to head as far left of High Wire crag as you can. Once you see the path heading to the Wall of Justice continue walking right like you were going to the top of the Wall of Justice. You will come to a point where the High Wire crag runs out and there you will make you final right hand turn past some nice pine trees. The crags left side or east-facing routes will be visible at this point. All that is left is to have fun in the sun. Hope all enjoys.
Getting There
Park at tunnel 2. Same as if you were going to climb at the High Wire crag. Head up to High Wire and continue up trending leftward traversing along the cliff band staying above the Wall of Justice. When High Wire cliff band runs out take a right and you will see the east facing routes before your very eyes.
My partner left a pair of Sportiva Testarossa shoes up there on Sunday as we fled from the snow/rain. If you've found um, send me a PM please! Thanks and here's to better weather this weekend.
Printer Friendly View
RSS Feed
Slideshow
