At the last bolt. Pretty much shows the entire rou...
Description
As the 1990 movie suggests, she’s a little dirty and rough around the edges, but she will clean up to be a keeper. Begin at the base of a small, black roof adjacent to the start of Hey Good Lookin’. Trend left towards a small, right-facing dihedral and continue up past a series of slabby ledge systems to a broad ledge below a second right-facing dihedral. Surmount the dihedral and launch into the pumpy, jug haul trending left out the roof. Above the roof, catch your breath and cut right to the new anchors.
Protection
She always uses protection and is well protected with 13 bolts. The anchor is two cold shuts approximately 3 feet left and below the lower anchor of Hey Good Lookin’. The route has been thoroughly cleaned for loose rocks, but the belayer should be aware of the potential for additional small rockfall- and, keep an eye out for Richard Gere and his pet gerbils.
By Derek Lawrence From: Bailey Nov 18, 2008 rating: 5.10a
Fun route! Definitely needs to clean up a bit but should do so nicely.... Crux to me (and others today) was not the roof but an awkward sequence around the 7th or 8th bolt. HUGE jugs thru the roof section!
A really fun climb with some thought provoking, enjoyable moves. The climb definitely needs a little cleaning. Some of the holds are going to come off in the near future, including the jug just past the slabby section and the 3rd or 4th bolt. When that one comes off, that section may become the crux and it will likely be a harder climb.
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