Located left of Mounty. A couple of devious slab moves reach a left traversing big flake. Easy climbing to steep and positive face climbing close to the left arete. One can TR Mounty from these anchors*. Lower about 100' back to the ledge.
Also can continue up and right to the top of Aries anchors to access the Contra ledge. #1 Camalot may be nice to make this transition.
Protection
8 QDs, two bolt lowering anchor. Belay in the same spot for Mounty (by the small juniper), good idea to use gear for the belay (#2 Camalot, #1 TCU (in lower pocket), hex, etc).
Still needs a bit of brushing, but the entry moves under the flake are a kick. N.B.: I did pull off several small flakes in the headwall below the last bolt, so some of the rock is a bit friable up here. Overall, this is a nice moderate addition.
By Leo Paik Administrator From: Westminster, Colorado Mar 10, 2005 rating: 5.8+
Felt stiff for 8+ if you go straight up between bolts 7&8. More like 8+ if you skirt out L around the arete & then up. Finger-sized cam may be nice in case the move to the 3rd bolt spooks ya, may be better than bailing & leaving a biner.
Good route, I agree on the fun bottom moves. Also, exited to the left near the top, which I am sure was harder if you took it straight on. Fun. Please be on the lookout for possible raptor nest above Lunchmoney. I witnessed a large hawk landing and taking off briefly from an area above the anchors for Lunchmoney 5.9.
This little line was always intended to milk the left arete at the top to keep the difficulty consistent with the rest of the route. The last bolt on the face keeps the rope running straight.
Don't make things harder than they need to be....
By Ron Olsen Administrator From: Boulder, CO Jul 18, 2005 rating: 5.9
A fun route with varied climbing. The thin slab move past the second bolt was the crux for me. There's a good spot for a red Alien after this to protect the start of the undercling traverse to the left. The traverse is airy and easier than it looks.
I went all the way around to the left side of the arete near the top; this was the easiest line.
You can use #1 and #2 Camalots in a horizontal crack for a belay anchor at the start by the little juniper tree.
By Walldahl From: Golden, CO Jul 25, 2006 rating: 5.9-
I think this climb should get another star...it's a great climb and is now all clean and very secure.
Comparing this to other Clear Creek Canyon routes, I’ve climbed 5.9s and 5.10s that felt easier. However, compared to climbs elsewhere, it’s right there in the 5.8+ range.
The crux for me was the section getting to the second bolt. The undercling traverse past the second bolt was really cool and not hard once you committed to the first moves of getting your feet up.
Lower Capitalist Crag
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