Wiled Horses gone free! This is a link-up/variation that climbs the first half of .30-06, through a 15' ceiling, to the second half of Roadrunner.
Follow the initial crack of .30-06 to the imposing roof, 10-. Powerful, dynamic, and long crux moves through the ceiling (V6-V7?)to a wild mantle (V5-V6?). I placed two protection bolts in the roof, but you still need a piece for the mantle crux at the lip. Dont blow the second clip in the roof.
Once over the lip, a bolt (there is an old useless 'mystery' bolt above the roof, skip this one and clip the new one) protects a crimpy exposed traverse into the fingers/thin-hands crux of Roadrunner finishing with wide hand crack to the anchors, 10+.
Do what you can to minimize rope drag as the zigs and zags weigh you down.
Disclaimer. Crux moves are extremely height dependent. Rating is approximate. Maybe more like 5.12e. For crude comparison sake, I think this roof is considerably harder than Great Escape, Brennivin, Mighty Dog, and Rocketman. This is the hardest mixed line in the canyon.
Much thanks to Casey for his belays on my initial exploratory efforts, and patience while I drilled the bolts and worked the moves. Thanks to Mel for her belays on my redpoint attempts. And thanks to Adam for the silky belay and encouragement on my final redpoint.
Location
Wall of the '90s, far right side.
Protection
Stoppers, #0.3 up to #2 Camalot, and two #3 Camalots for the upper crack. Back up the shitty ring pin for your first piece off the ground. There is one other pin midway up the initial crack.
Two protection bolts in the ceiling, as there is no clean pro until the lip. Another new bolt above the lip to link to the crack.
A gymnastic and inspired rock climb. Great vision by the FA. You may just feel enticed and then trapped by this sick roof, and you are going to have to get crafty if you want to set these horses free!
Wall of the '90s
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