Jeroen about to engage the huecos. Photo by, Jason...
Description
Pull out of the cave, laybacking a hanging flake, to engage the long sustained face above. Be sure to look around and find all the amazing pockets for full value on this one.
Location
See topo photo.
Protection
20 bolts help keep this route easy for its grade. You'll also need something for the chains at the top and at least a 70 meter rope. An anchor has also been installed about 25 feet below the original finish, at the top of the slab, to allow ascent with a 60 meter rope.
A 70 meter will not get you on the ground. It takes you to the third bolt where you have any easy downclimb to the the climber's left side. It would be better to take 2 sixties and rap the route.
This is a really cool route. The crux, and the slab above have a nice flow. Super well bolted, we often found ourselves clipping draws at our waists; however, it is very well suited to someone looking to lead their first .9+...as we all thought the route to be due to the sustained nature of the beautiful slab. Nice and long warm-up, especially when led with two 60s. Young Doug.
By Mark Felber From: Frisco, CO,USA Aug 27, 2008 rating: 5.8
Very well bolted, a very good climb for a new leader.
Lowering my partner, I reached the (knotted) end of the rope when her feet were just above my head and I had to climb up a ways so her feet could touch the ground and she could unweight the rope and untie. Being quite a bit heavier, I got to the ground on rope stretch.
Excellent climb. Sustained in rock quality and climbing. Cleaning will help in quality and ease the difficulty a bit.
I echo the comments about a 70m rope being short. I came up short, and even though my rope has lost a meter, it is longer than 115' to ground. 70m = 230' , or 115' rap with one rope. If it is a 125' climb, then you will be short with a 70m rope.
I would certainly support a belay/rap to make it a 2 or 1 pitch climb.
Fun climb. Bolted well for the grade. 13-20 clips depending on your comfort level. Thoughtful clips, though, to protect ledge falls. My 70m made it. The route could have stopped at the ledge at the second to last bolt, then everyone's rope would make it. No complaints, though, fun long route. The jugs in the middle were a hoot.
Wow! I must have missed some holds..I hate it when you offer up a grade, then everyone comes along and...anyway, still a nice climb! Peace Young Doug
By Ron Olsen Administrator From: Boulder, CO Sep 15, 2008 rating: 5.9
A really fun pitch with a bunch of 5.9 moves. Well bolted for a 5.9 leader; more advanced climbers may be comfortable skipping a few clips.
My 70m rope (Mammut Infinity Duodess) was not long enough to lower the leader to the ground; it came up about 20' short.
There is a good ledge about 15 feet below the top anchor; I think it would be a good idea to install an anchor here, to allow lowering all the way to the ground for those of us with shorter or less stretchy 70m ropes. The last 15' of climbing is fun, but I think a lower anchor will improve the safety and reduce the hassle factor of the climb.
By Eric Schmeer From: Denver Sep 15, 2008 rating: 5.8+
The halfway point of my 70 was hanging around the 3rd bolt when my partner hit the top. It is all about stretch, mine made it right to the bottom, others won't. Still, not a scary downclimb... or even drop right off the end if you're not too far up.