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Made In The Shade 

5.9-

   

FA: Kirk Miller and Kirk Raney
New Route: Yes
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.9- [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 125 feet
Views: 1,185 page views

Submitted By: Kirk Miller on Jul 21, 2008


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You and this route  |  Other Opinions (23)
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Jeroen about to engage the huecos.
Photo by, Jason...



Description 

Pull out of the cave, laybacking a hanging flake, to engage the long sustained face above. Be sure to look around and find all the amazing pockets for full value on this one.


Location 

See topo photo.


Protection 

20 bolts help keep this route easy for its grade. You'll also need something for the chains at the top and at least a 70 meter rope.
An anchor has also been installed about 25 feet below the original finish, at the top of the slab, to allow ascent with a 60 meter rope.



Add Photo Photos of Made In The Shade
Made in the Shade.  The bolts are very closely spaced, so it is good for a beginning leader.

BETA PHOTO: Made in the Shade. The bolts are very closely spa...


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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Sep 28, 2008
By Alison Conrad
Jul 25, 2008

A 70 meter will not get you on the ground. It takes you to the third bolt where you have any easy downclimb to the the climber's left side. It would be better to take 2 sixties and rap the route.

By michael.repsher
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 27, 2008

Maybe my 70m rope is a bit longer, but I made it to the bottom just fine with about 6 inches of rope to spare.

By doug rouse
Aug 3, 2008
rating: 5.9+

This is a really cool route. The crux, and the slab above have a nice flow. Super well bolted, we often found ourselves clipping draws at our waists; however, it is very well suited to someone looking to lead their first .9+...as we all thought the route to be due to the sustained nature of the beautiful slab. Nice and long warm-up, especially when led with two 60s. Young Doug.

By Tracy Roach
From: Littleton
Aug 13, 2008

A 70 meter rope will work just fine. But it is EXACTLY the right length. Any shorter and you're going to have to downclimb.

This is a really fun climb. Is it the longest in the canyon? It is the best warmup. I'd climb it any day. Great work Kirk. I love it!

By Darren Mabe
Aug 14, 2008
rating: 5.9-

No, not the longest.

By Mark Felber
From: Frisco, CO,USA
Aug 27, 2008
rating: 5.8

Very well bolted, a very good climb for a new leader.

Lowering my partner, I reached the (knotted) end of the rope when her feet were just above my head and I had to climb up a ways so her feet could touch the ground and she could unweight the rope and untie. Being quite a bit heavier, I got to the ground on rope stretch.

By Casey Bernal
Aug 29, 2008
rating: 5.9-

Excellent climb. Sustained in rock quality and climbing. Cleaning will help in quality and ease the difficulty a bit.

I echo the comments about a 70m rope being short. I came up short, and even though my rope has lost a meter, it is longer than 115' to ground. 70m = 230' , or 115' rap with one rope. If it is a 125' climb, then you will be short with a 70m rope.

I would certainly support a belay/rap to make it a 2 or 1 pitch climb.

By Darren Mabe
Sep 2, 2008
rating: 5.9-

Fun climb. Bolted well for the grade. 13-20 clips depending on your comfort level. Thoughtful clips, though, to protect ledge falls. My 70m made it. The route could have stopped at the ledge at the second to last bolt, then everyone's rope would make it. No complaints, though, fun long route. The jugs in the middle were a hoot.

By doug rouse
Sep 2, 2008
rating: 5.9+

Wow! I must have missed some holds..I hate it when you offer up a grade, then everyone comes along and...anyway, still a nice climb! Peace Young Doug

By Ron Olsen
Administrator
From: Boulder, CO
Sep 15, 2008
rating: 5.9

A really fun pitch with a bunch of 5.9 moves. Well bolted for a 5.9 leader; more advanced climbers may be comfortable skipping a few clips.

My 70m rope (Mammut Infinity Duodess) was not long enough to lower the leader to the ground; it came up about 20' short.

There is a good ledge about 15 feet below the top anchor; I think it would be a good idea to install an anchor here, to allow lowering all the way to the ground for those of us with shorter or less stretchy 70m ropes. The last 15' of climbing is fun, but I think a lower anchor will improve the safety and reduce the hassle factor of the climb.

By Eric Schmeer
From: Denver
Sep 15, 2008
rating: 5.8+

The halfway point of my 70 was hanging around the 3rd bolt when my partner hit the top. It is all about stretch, mine made it right to the bottom, others won't. Still, not a scary downclimb... or even drop right off the end if you're not too far up.

By Kirk Miller
From: Golden, CO
Sep 28, 2008

New, lower anchor compliments of Bruno Haché. Thanks Bruno.