Near the upper crux on this long pitch. Photo by P...
Description
One of the longest single pitches on the crag, coming in at about 105 feet. Bring a 60m rope or 2-50m. This route is the second route right of the big crack/gully system running through the middle of the crag. This route is the furthest line left running through the obvious roof. The climbing starts through some rough terrain (not very fun) and then breaks left at the 3rd bolt, I think heading straight up the slab on the right would be a little harder than 10a. Place long draws on the bolts below the roof to avoid rope drag. Once you pull the roof climb to a rest 3 bolts from the top. Clipping the 10th/11th bolt may be difficult if you are under 5'4", quite commiting and the crux of the route. From here, climb over the top and get your body in that alcove to clip the anchors, weird body position. Altogether a nice route, with crimps on the slab, a roof to pull and continuity. 2 stars.
Why...is this called Neo-Quasi Bugaloo, a small band in Denver made that term up in 1997 to describe a blend of all musical styles, focusing mainly on fun. Please e-mail me back to expalin this violation at funkyaskimbo@lycos.com
That's really cool. Sorry, if I sounded like a jerk, that's just my sense of humor. I'm the drummer of Askimbo and althought Geoff (the pastor's son) is no longer in the band, I still talk to him quite a bit. Thanks for the reference. I'm to tell all my Boulder friends about this.
An excellent line with thin face moves down low, a pumpy roof to a good rest, more face climbing to difficult sidepull moves that finally get you to a fun mantle and the top. My first lead up this I couldn't figure out the side pulls near the top so I moved left into the corner and laybacked up to the 11th bolt. I did the route again on TR and still found the side pull moves quite tricky, but manageable; these are just like the side pulls that spit me off of Bonehead 5.10c @##$##$%%!!!! Excellent line with good bolt placements and a really cool, although totally conspicuous and aesthetically unfriendly, top anchor, but maybe not as cool as Airheads chains.
By Drew Allan From: Denver & Aspen Aug 31, 2002 rating: 5.10b/c
If you are trying to determine which is route is easier to climb between this route and it's neighbor, Learning to Crawl, I would suggest LTC. Although rated slighter lower, NQB is definitely harder than LTC in IMHO. There are approximately four crux sections on this route and, with the added length, makes NQB more challenging. The roof on this route is more involved than LTC. My partner felt the same way. Interesting to see what others think.
I did these routes with a 5'2" woman and a 12 year old, and they both found NQB to be significantly trickier than LTC. 10c and 10a were the official estimates, respectively.I'm about 5'9", and the two routes don't seem all that different to me, although I would agree that NQB is more continuous.
I thought it was harder than 10a more like 10c in my opinion. The traverse down low was out of character for the route. Solid moves throughout, great route!
"I think heading straight up the slab on the right would be a little harder than 10a."
If you go straight up/right of the bolt line, it's definitely solid 11, I'd say. Ultra thin, committing slab work involved, and it's more than just one move.
The Highlands aka Highlander
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