BETA PHOTO: Some of the newer routes on Little Eiger. Bush Ad...
Description
Very sustained and quality climbing with multiple cruxes make Tierra Del Fuego one of the best 5.11s on The Little Eiger.
The route lies between Natural Selection and Bush Administration. Climb low-angle slab past two clips. The wall steepens at the third bolt. The next four clips are possibly the technical crux. Fire through and climb 5.10 above and then 5.9. The wall steepens again, climb past three bolts on sustained 5.11 to the anchor. Pump left past the last bolt and then crimp up and right to a final crimp under the anchor
The route might be a letter grade harder. I need a few climbers to get on it and confirm the rating. I rehearsed it while establishing so when I sent it I knew every move.
With the placement of the anchors on Tierra Del Fuego, it is now possible to get off Natural Selection and/or Bush Administration without complication for those with a 50-meter rope.
Gregg Purnell has added an extension that adds a bolt and ends at another anchor. This is 12 a/b.
11b sounds about right. The lower crux still needs to clean up a bit, a bit o' lichen. I think the real crux is clipping the anchors.
By Jeremy From: Boulder, CO Jul 13, 2005 rating: 5.11b
I think 11b may be accurate. It's just about my limit and it spit me off pretty well. I hoped that the middle crux was the end of the hard climbing. However, clipping the chains proved over my head. I had WAY too much pump for the mental step it took. Good route though.
Now you can either finish the original route and call if 11b or you can now climb another 10 ft of crimpers with 1 bolt and lower off another set of anchors to make the climb 12a/b.
Thought this route seemed forced. Didn't seem like a very natural line. I think the rating is probably right, but the crux move to the anchors was what put it there. I haven't tried what Greg posted, but the moves I did seemed to be there just to get the rating up.
I am compelled to defend Tierra Del Fuego. The route was [TR'd] first. I never felt it was contrived or forced. You climb [straight] up on steep rock through multiple cruxes. There is no wandering around to make it harder. The route is "in your face" [straight] up climbing. How is that contrived or forced? There are no broken ledges and the corners on the left do not help you avoid any cruxes. The last headwall climbs very nicely in my opinion, with a one digit pocket to a cross-over to a hard side -pull and a tricky clip of my last bolt.
I never felt that my last crimpy move was the crux. For me, the crux is at the final bolt where you start to move left. I feel the first crux is at least equal to the last.
The anchors were place where they are because I felt that the next section climbed too close to Bush Administration and became squeezed with Natural Selection as well. Bush Administration trends left at the top and Natural Selection moves right at its top.
Now that the last ten feet have been established, I feel that I should have gone ahead and installed it the first time. Believe me, I thought about it but decided not to squeeze it in.
So, now we have a climb with two 5.11 cruxes and a 5.12 crux and every crux has interesting and pumpy or delicate moves. Name another route on The Little Eiger equal to that! My compliments to Greg Purnell for his contribution. The additional 10 feet are super crimpy but very cool!
Now I will take down the original anchor and let the route become 12a/b. I leave it to Greg to rate his addition.
I have climbed many other routes in Clear Creek, and I'd say that at least 2/3rds of the routes I have climbed are less fun and more broken-up than Tierra Del Fuego (routes on High Wire for example). It's my opinion, and I'm sure others will disagree with me.
I still give Tierra Del Fuego three stars. You guys don't have to like it.
Thor, I really enjoyed the route. In fact, everytime I'm up there now I have to do it cause it's such a cool route. I really like the movement of the climb, sidepulls, gastons, crimps get you feet up lean sideways, almost too cool. I suggest leave your anchors and that way I don't have to do the last moves all the time, it's pretty damn hard. Thanks for the route and all the hard work you're doing...
This climb was pretty fun. The good climbing outweighed the several rests/easy climbing interludes.
I was quite confused by the 12a extension...I was on the crimps at/below the anchors, but didn't see any other features for quite some time...and no chalk to help out a bad onsight-er like myself. I'd like to know where people went.
Thor! another great route.... Enjoyed tremendously. Made it through the first crux. It's the second crux that I need to work on. Will go up on Saturday and see if I can redpoint it. I'm just breaking into the .11 rating. Having a great time with your routes. Can't wait to try Tsunami of Charisma. Did you ever end up taking out the first anchors?
After doing this a couple of times, I feel this is a fine, technically sustained route. I did do the 12a/b finish and found it very thin and thoughtful. I found the body positions I needed to use seemed really improbable, but then I found myself somehow sticking up there when I fully committed. It's not a pure strength crux, because it comes down to focus, determination, and technique, not just raw power. You have to stay very "quiet" on the holds to get them to work for you.