Garrett's Revenge is a 3rd pitch variation to Gniess Roof that starts off the Ashtray Belay on the upper East (i.e. sunny) face of Mission Wall. A nice variation when 'Billy the Kid' shuts you down. Climb Gneiss Roof to access the Ashtray (P1 5.11, 12 bolts -- P2 5.9+, 5 bolts ).
P3: From the Ashtray, climb up and left onto a sloping ledge, pull over the tricky and difficult roof (crux) left of 'Billy the Kid. The third bolt may be a difficult clip. Follow the beautiful sustained face up to a 2-bolt belay (Metolius hangers) on a ramp.
P4: The 'Bush Exit' - 30 feet of class five climbing, spot of 5.6, gains the Surette ledge and 2 bolt belay. A few TCUs or large stoppers may protect this 'pitch'.
Descent: From Surette Ledge, traverse around the corner to the right and rappel the Gneiss Route. Two double rope rappels or three rappels with a 70m get you to ground.
**extension has been added. see comments and topo below***
Protection
About 16 quickdraws, 2-bolt belays. Not recommended to rap... traverse Surette and rap the Rocketman.
By Casey Bernal From: Wheat Rige, CO Oct 19, 2003 rating: 5.11d
Well guys, I think we messed up. After climbing this route recently, Darren and I laughed that we rated this route 11a. Oops. We spent over a month developing this section of wall and working out the lines so we had every move wired. The route is much harder than 11a, more like 11++ or so. We did not mean to sandbag anyone, it just felt much easier at the time. I apologize to anyone who was whipped by the mis-rating.
However, this pitch is STELLAR: improbable roof, continuous and devious face, direct and distinct line, and unbelievable position. The roof is the definite crux and may be easier for tall people and those who know the sequence, it is also safe even if you blow the clip.
For doing the whole route from the ground to top, you only need 12 Qds and Aliens green to red.
By Casey Bernal From: Wheat Rige, CO Dec 8, 2003 rating: 5.11d
It is possible to lower from the anchors atop the GR crux pitch back into the Ashtray belay. You must use a QD to tram down the rope back into the Ashtray because of the large roof, and because of this roof it is not possible to rap back into the Ashtray. This avoids the bush exit and the scramble to the other anchors and there are fewer raps. There will be a lot of drag for the toprope but it improves once the follower pulls past the crux. Then do one Double-rope rap to the ground and watch for loose rocks. This way is simpler and much faster.
This climb is in a beautiful spot and has a classy feel, all too rare in this oftentimes grid-bolted-fluffy-graded canyon. The approach pitches are fun and interesting. Gotta say it seemed crazy-hard for 11a, specially given its location in CCC. Pulling over the roof is inobvious and pretty stiff, with an interesting clip. Very cool. Also like how the routes on this wall actually seem to have vaguely realistic grades.
By WiledHorse From: NoGo Aug 22, 2005 rating: 5.11d
Gear Alert
I recently added to [Garrett's] Revenge. This may sound confusing, but here it goes:
GR and Billy the Kid no longer starts out of the [Ashtray], instead at the end of P2 of Ride the Snake, make downward traverse (4th class, 2 bolts) left to a set of anchors on the slab. Garrett's Revenge now starts from there. Chase 8 bolts up steep 5.9-5.10 to join either original [Garrett's] Revenge or Billy the Kid. This makes for about a 150' pitch total to the Metolius Rap anchors. Your belayer can see you the for the whole pitch!
THEN, instead of climbing the Bush Exit, follow another 4 bolts through the roofs to the left (5.10).
If [you're] a stud, and account for rope drag, you can do all of this in one long-ass full rope length pitch. Ends at nice ledge. Rap down the Rocketman route.
This keeps the short mixed traverse pitch and Ashtray Belay ledge unique to the Nice-Ride link up.
RSS Feed
Slideshow
