A great route and far enough away from the road to be enjoyable.
This route is downstream from the main Primo Wall cliff. Pass the main wall, and then pass a slab (with 5.9 and 12b routes) until you reach a wall that is almost perpindicular with the river. Someone wrote "Ken T'ank" in chalk at the base of the route. The upper portion of this wall has very cool wave shapes. Also look for a small bush halfway up the wall.
Route moves up through thin crimps to a toss to a sloper. Midsection of the route is jugs leading to a great rest. Then finish up through bearhug moves as you slap 2 aretes. Very interesting movement and one of the better routes I've climbed at Clear Creek.
Midway up the route, there are a few bolts diverging off to the left. Looks like a variation that is much harder and I'm not sure if it's completed.
I did the first ascent of this route a few years ago. I did not bolt it but the equipper quit climbing and said have at it. Originally called "Fission" in Rolofson's Clear Creek guide. I don't know where Ken T'ank's came from but I don't care. A good route.
Jim, sounds like you did the FA. Did you name the route anything? I named it Ken T'ank based on the name that was written on chalk at the base of the route. That name may refer to the left variation. I don't know. I think in Rolofson's guide the route was called listed as "Fission (AKA: Ken Tanks)".
I believe the route was bolted by Tim from Boulder, Hank Caylor and Ken Kenny got the FA after it was bolted, hence the name blending in the three equippers together.
This is a really great route - probably one of the most fun that I have done at this grade in Clear Creek - the movement is superb. The chalked Ken T'ank at the bottom says 12+, that would be a little stouter than the route seemed going through the right set of bolts. The left variation? looks somewhat harder than .12d. It would be nice to know what the left line is. All in all, this one is well worth doing.
By Bill Ballace From: Pullman, Wa Jul 21, 2007 rating: 5.12c
The name Ken T'ank came from Ken, Tim and Hank. We went up there and moved a misplaced bolt but were not responsible for bolting it. After that all 3 of us did it, 1st Ken then myself (T) and then Hank ('ank). We wrote the name Ken T'ank at the base and rated it .12 b/c someone else apparently thought it to be harder. Anyway a couple of days later I was talking to Jim Redo only to find out he did it a day or so before us. Always thought it was a great route. Glad to see others enjoy it as much as we did. I think it would get 3 stars (or 5 depending on your scale) for the grade at any crag.
By gatch From: denver, co Nov 2, 2008 rating: 5.12c
Crux is tough if you're shorter. At 5'7", it was a 3 points off dyno to the sloper. Felt low percentage. Quite stoked to send. Just out of curiosity, is there different beta other than: left hand on the 'block crimp' above the bad jug and right hand on the crimp undercling, work feet up as high as possible, then huck?
Bitchin’ route. I think the upper crux is just as difficult as the first but in a tottaly different way. The variation to the left actually looks kind of cool.
By Luke Childers From: Denver Sep 27, 2009 rating: 5.12b
Great line!! This is one of those special lines you will always revisit. Just a beautiful wall with two exciting cruxes separated by a really cool no hands rest. Best 5.12 I've done in a while. All things being said, however, I felt that a rating of 5.12b would be fitting... after all there is a no hands rest in the middle of the wall and the 1st crux didn't really feel any harder that (V3). But all grade mongering aside... this line is not to be missed!!!
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