Follow Presto to the alcove. Reach up out right for the fifth clip, then work up sloping rounded sidepulls and underclings until the bolt is at your feet and you realize there's no way to let go. Stare at the slot overhead, then launch a committing right-hand throw for a jam. Stick the jam or go for an exciting ride. Pull up past the last bolt onto a sloping ledge, then work some sidepulls on the left to stand up and drop the rope in the hooks.
Protection
Six bolts to a two bolt anchor with 1/2" open coldshuts.
Here is a slopefest if I have ever tried one. I thought this route was sweet. Fun moves up to the alcove (presto start) then an improbable sequence on slopers that do not want to let you hang on to them. The left hand undercling before the "hand jam" throw makes you laugh when you realize that one can actually use this hold. I thought the route had more resting opportunities than Anarchitect, but the difficulty of the crux may be equal or harder than the technical crux on Anarchitect. Great route, well worth the effort. Save this one for a cool day though, any extra "grease factor" will definitely increase the grade!
RSS Feed
