Stiff Upper Lip is just as advertised, delivering the crux after the very last clip and the last roof problem. The entire left side of Highlander is composed of various roof problems, most difficult. Stiff Upper Lip is the first route encountered on the right side of the roof sector. It takes off up a sparsely bolted slab at 5.8 to 5.9 to gain the roof system at an awkward crack that splits the first roof. Munge through the first roof to gain a second roof on huge deep flakes and great body movement. Just turn off the brain and muscle up the overlaps. Get situated below the third overlap, get the last clip, and pull a 5.12b/c (closer to c) crux while looking at anchors that are just out of reach! Thin, technical, and powerful, the crux has been avoided entirely by dropping a sling from the anchor. This is bomb-proof bolting, so hang in for the final move, there is not a chance in hell of getting hurt, just make the move. If it were not for the easy entry slab Stiff Upper Lip would certainly go with three stars for the big, fun, powerful moves on way overhanging stone. Bring the biceps and you'll have a blast - just save a crimp or two for the anchors. The Master of Clear Creek strikes again.
Protection
QD only. This 70 ft roof problem needs only 8 - 9 draws and something for the double bolt anchor at the top.
the last bolt it bad. it is pulled out a significant amount. maybe the 'master of [Clear Creek]' could fix his poor 'bomb-proof bolting' job.
By WiledHorse From: NoGo Aug 29, 2005 rating: 5.12a
First roof is awkward move, and I think is crux. Be careful on that clip, a short draw will cross load the biner! Backclean the couple of bolts under the roof, or extend with a runner.
Second roof is all jugs and a pumpy clip of the anchors. If you do it right, you will be clipping the anchors at your chest from a semi-positive jug above and heel hook.
By Jay van Sam From: Denver CO Dec 7, 2008 rating: 5.11+
There's quite a bit of loose rock on this route, be careful and have an attentive belayer.
I second the comments on this being .11+ as opposed to .12-. Wind Machine felt harder, I've been on Wind Machine a few times, but had never been on this before. Regardless of the grade, it's a decent bit of fun climbing.
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