Flying Cowboys is an interesting route, and the only 12d on the Primo Wall. The best way to describe this one is two tricky boulder problems separated by a huge rest on a ledge. If you can link the initial powerful throw for the lower crux, and follow this with tricky climbing into the mantle, then you can take a nap on the ledge before finishing the route. Don't be misled into thinking the climb is over though, some difficult moves still separate you from the anchors and the Redpoint. Two stars for the sweet moves, not three though because of the nap-ledge rest.
Don't get hustled onto the ledge. It was awkward getting back into the line. Just keep firing up!
By chris deulen From: Portland, ME Aug 7, 2004 rating: 5.12c
This would probably go at 12d or harder for anyone under 5'8", or not sick strong (as in a 13+ climber). I didn't have any problem getting back on after the ledge. You just have to "slink" around it and reach for the good side pull while using the poor undercling.
The first half of this climb freakin kicks ass! The mantle is f$%kin strenuous- or I was missing something perhaps. I'm 5'5 and this felt 12d for sure. I think it would be a better climb if you just simply mantled and then stood up and clipped the chains- the top half is fun but overall far worse quality (climbing and rock) than the bottom. Worth an effort for sure however- the bottom half is worthy of *** (3 stars), the top is *.
I happen to agree with you, Jon. I would/could put an anchor on the ledge....
By Luke Childers From: Denver Aug 21, 2009 rating: 5.12d
The bottom is great!!! The ledge mantel thing... not my thing and the last section never seemed to add anything that great to the line but I've not done the line since 2001 and plan to get a new 2009 opinion on the matter. Worth doing for sure!!
Yes Jonathan, you missed something. Just climb a bit left at the ledge level. You get a decent 3 finger crimp up high and left with your left, and your right hand rides the edge of the ledge. Right foot up on the hold you dyno to, and rock over comfortably. This flows nicely into the top section, allowing you to blow off the rest if you want. Personally, I think the top of this route is just as fun as the bottom with good moves making it not over 'til it's over. Now, if you directly mantle the ledge, that's just heinous.
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