By Stich From: Colorado Springs, Colorado Aug 3, 2001
The bouldery start on this route requires a traverse with most of one's weight on the hands to the first bolt - definitely the crux. The rest of the route you can "cheat" and stem the dihedral when it suits you or stick to the right face. Either is fun, so do both like I did. Expect to stumble on rests every few feet, if you want them.
My first outdoor sport climb. The description is about right--if you can get off the ground, the climb is finished. As such, this is probably a good first lead route. Cool dihedral, very big, very obvious holds, and not totally vertical.
This is a good warm up route. To make the route a little better, climb the face instead of using the dihedral. Other than that I'd give it two stars just for the warm up.
A really fun route, but beginners might find the start to be a little intimidating. Very bouldery. Also, if you happen to bring a set of stoppers up with you, this climb can be led with gear placed in the dihedral, if one desires. A little spacier than the bolts, but fun and the climbing isn't too hard. If you do get sketched out, just clip on of them bolts.
A friend and I just did this route yesterday. It's a fun route, but I wanted to mention that the anchors are getting pretty rusted. Plus the left hand anchor is wearing through, at least a 1/3rd of the way. Does anyone know who to contact about replacing anchors in this area?
Did this route for the first time on Saturday. Have to agree with the previous post about the anchors - they are getting pretty worn. Someone should replace them, or at the very least - rap the route - don't lower someone directly off these anchors.
If you decide to lead this as a trad climb, and you clipped that first bolt with a standard draw, don't forget to use runners for your gear. A fall could lateral-pull your "bombproof" nuts and cams right out and then we'd have to carry your mangled remains down that slippery trail in front of all those gawking tourists in the gambling busses and subsequently cause a rollover accident like the one that occurred on a weekend morning this past March in plain view of the crag. Treat that highway like a 50ft runout on 5.10 rotten slab...minimal contact time. It's really true: the approach is always more dangerous than the climb.
I would like to know why this climb is bolted. There is a perfectly protectable dihedral within reach to the left. If anyone can give an answer to the question of why this meant-to-be-trad-climb is now bolted, I would like their opinion.
By Ryan Bibler From: Denver May 7, 2006 rating: 5.7
A fun direct start can be done to this route. Instead of moving right and doing the hand traverse below the first bolt, place a small cam in the crack and cruise up. It's a bit of a bouldery move, but no harder than 5.8.
By Scott Edlin From: boulder, co Jun 27, 2006 rating: 5.7
It appeared that this could be well protected on gear.
I feel ashamed to admit this but i left a purple Metolius TCU #0 almost halfway up. I put a runner on it, and when the rope became taut, it dragged the cam sideways into a wedged position. I spent much time trying to get it out, so it's pretty stuck. If anyone has the skill to get it out and feels like sparing me $50, then my email is mwhitema@du.edu
By Kyle Douglass From: Golden, Co Oct 16, 2007 rating: 5.7
This route has a fun start, but is pretty much over after that. Aside from the start and a final move at the top, the run is only about a 5.5+
Fun route for sure. I liked the alternate start up the dihedral on the left - for even more fun, work the route staying to the right side of the boltline all the way up. Fun face climbing on tiny holds, good feet all the way. This variation goes maybe 5.7 or 7+.
By Kyle P. From: Lander, WY Feb 23, 2009 rating: 5.7+
Very good question Jon. There are other lines much like this in CCC. I guess it is considered to be much like limestone, it is a sport climbing area, so we should bolt everything.
A very easy climb...even for only a 5.9 climber. Was raining when we climbed it and it still felt a bit over bolted. Skipped some bolts just because I'm lazy. Crux is the first move...the overhang at least kept the feet semi dry.
By Justin Cantrall From: Smoulder, CO Jun 27, 2009 rating: 5.7
Not sure what the totally obvious "direct start" variation goes at, but it is 5.fun if you brought a trad rack to the crag. I guess you should probably feel pretty confident climbing a bouldery, brief overhang/roof jugfest if you want to try leading this "variation" (that seems like the more natural line to me than traversing into it from the bolt.) V0--nah, but 5.9 maybe. Pulling through the roof protects well with a stopper, but placing gear above that is pumpy until you get to the rest. I just powered through it and never really felt like I'd be in trouble if I had peeled.
There is an interesting variation towards the top if you lead this on gear: protect as needed in the dihedral but stay right of the bolts; eventually you'll find another protectable fingercrack. A thin face move gets you into the business; a blue tricam works well in the horizontal crack, then eventually traverse back towards the anchors. This makes it 5.8, maybe? Try it.
Why in the world was this route bolted? It goes great on gear!
Pulling the first clip is the hardest move. The rest is 5.5.... If you DON'T climb it using the LEFT side of the dihedral, you get a good feel for what 5.7 leading should feel like! Also this should be a Trad climb!
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