Super, super fun route... but word to the wise: don't use a heel-hook at the top to pull for the anchors, unless you absolutely have it. I ended up peeling off first time and gouged my ankle out, had to stay out of the climbing shoes for a good month. Reach far right, just past the bolt, for the well-chalked jugs at the crux. Very juggy route, a good pump.
Heel Hook to clip anchors...To all would be ascenders out there, the action is over after the first bolt...everything else is a nice positive jug haul..including nice jugs from which to make the anchors..which are open shuts. I agree with Peter though..very fun but too short. Peace.
By Caleb Phillips From: Boulder, CO Jul 20, 2008 rating: 5.10a
Might consider stick-clipping the first bolt. The hardest move (IMHO) is at the first bolt and the fall (on big sharp rocks) would suck. It definitely psyched me out. If you're taller than 6', this won't be an issue for you. The only 10a move is right at the first bolt, the rest climbs like 9.
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