This is the ultra classic of the Wall of Justice. A weird 12a sequence gains the good jugs for the huge roof. Then gain the lip with a tough reachy move on a small hold. Of course the crux of this one is at the end, a crazy mantle move with literally no good hand holds. I highly recommend this route.
As you pull the lip jug and get the first peek over the lip you'll see a bolt with no hanger and another chopped bolt above that. It appears as though someone moved the bolt line to the right about 3 feet, which makes the line more direct and reduces the drag a little.
There were two quickdraws from someone projecting this route that on my last visit were gone.... I saw two guys leaving (two older foreigners--I could tell by their accents) and went to set up under the route and saw only a bail biner and at the base a big messy chalk spill that was very recent. I sent the route and took the bail biner...if the draws were indeed stolen and if the bail biner is illegit, I would be more than glad to give it back.... Let me know by posting below.
Got on [Slammer] for the first time, [awesome], but rock (good square foot) ripped out pulling over the first roof. Does not [affect] hands much but may affect high feet/heel hook making the first crux move. [Curious,] does this change [route] at all for anybody who has climbed this before?
By chris deulen From: Portland, ME Oct 14, 2005 rating: 5.12b
Haven't been on it recently so I couldn't say, but I know that the heel hook to pull the first roof (after the one pictured below) was pretty crucial, especially keeping my leg closer to me rather than farther.
Excellent route. I liked the limbo action to gain the roof and then the awesome mantle to get to the anchors. As they say in the guidebook, "it's the greatest jug haul in the universe."
The crux I think is pulling the first roof with awkward hands and a tip sinker, and not the juggy mantle to the anchors that had a pretty good but slopey crimper.
By Nick W. From: Fort Collins, CO Jan 8, 2009 rating: 5.12b
Wow, one of the most fun routes I have ever climbed. Perfect jugs through the roof to a tough move past the first lip. The final mantle is insane. When I read the route description I thought that the crux described was turning the first roof by a mantle move, while the first roof is challenging, it is not the mantle described above. The final mantle comes two bolts after turning the first roof and definitely makes one fight to gain the chains.