Pulling the ceiling. The crux is clipping and reac...
Description
This is an excellent route with a brief cruxy section up to and over a small roof. Both below and above this are fun slabby moves. The rating is a little soft (Refer Madness on this same wall is decidedly more difficult, for example), so if you're looking to claim your first 11 lead, this is a fun route for it!
For the totally bored, there is a nearly completely independent from Vixen and Hey Good Lookin' is a super-squeezed in between TR variation named in honor of Alan Light called Squeezing in a bit of Texas. Maybe 11a if Vixen is 11a.
If you don't mind looking stupid, which I don't, you can "saddle up" on the horn right over the roof and get a no hands, no foot rest. At 98 degrees F this allows for one to needlessly overchalk. JM
I'm glad at least a few people think this is harder than the 10c guidebook rating. I was desperate under the ceiling despite having the advantage of a double draw hanging from the bolt over the lip. Once I got the jug, the ceiling itself was easy.
This is a fun climb. It's definitely not 11 once you get past the roof. IMO, the climbing past the roof is, as my buddy said, not memorable. Moving through the roof is fun, though, and I'd give it at least a hard 10 rating. It's a little heady for the clip protecting that section because the holds are a bit sketchy and there are a couple features below that have the potential to make a fall nasty.
By Sean Wolf From: Golden, CO Aug 7, 2009 rating: 5.11a
I took a fall at the roof and it went clean. Did anyone else use the beta where you throw yourself up to get your butt sitting on the huge horn just left of the clip? Awesome rest! I thought the climbing above the roof was decent. The big ledges for your feet at most of the clips take away some excitement, but I felt that the climbing was good.