Get ready for some variety! Slab climbing leads to the first difficult move, an 11c mantle problem to gain the ledge above the first big roof. Rest well and then launch into the overhung crux slopefest. Actually there are some good jugs on this section, although the sequence is a little devious. Route finding on a sport route, who would have thought! Finish by going straight up the final smooth bulge (11b), or wimp out and escape to the right, although the hard part is over. Great route with lots of cool moves!
Protection
First pitch is short, 3 bolts up to a belay on big ledge. Better yet, skip this by walking up the ledge from the left side to the belay. Upper pitch is 12 bolts and two bolt anchor. There is a 4 bolt 3rd pitch, 5.5 s.
I'll agree with Alan that the crux pitch is only 11c. I had no trouble onsighting because all the clips were from nice stances (or could be clipped and downclimbed to rest). I consider this route one of the best in Clear Creek, an aesthetic line through a tiered roof of high quality rock!
By Leo Paik Administrator From: Westminster, Colorado May 5, 2003
There is a 9+ TR variation to the 1st pitch between Road Warrior and Road Kill for the bored.
Great movement on solid stone. I always thought this looked a little chossy (not the case at all). Super-fun, kinda pumpy, but there are great rests! I am not sure why there are anchors at about 20 ft. off of the ledge, because I did the route w/ a 60m from the ledge and it worked out fine.
Fantastic route with a little bit of everything! Felt solid for 11d for me through the bulge as its a devious sequence. It was a pretty warm 80+ day so that might add to the difficulty on this one since the crux has some sloper jugs.
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