Creek Side may or may not be a good name for this wall. Nothing has been published that I have found and no name has been ascribed to the crag. Now, this seems odd inasmuch as Creek Side is largest expanse of continuous stone in Clear Creek - bigger than the Mission Wall by at least 100 ft and more continuous than The Little Eiger. The crag towers over 400 ft above the stream, faces depressingly due East, and sees virtually no climbing. It is dark, cold, and windy most of the day except for a spell in the morning when it gets full sun. To make matters worse, the crag appears to be composed of fractured, friable, appalling stone. However, in the '60s, Layton Kor and colleagues punched up a mixed route that exited a large open-book dihedral at the 200 ft mark. This line has been repeated occasionally since then, and at least one fatality has been reported from the '70s. So, Creek Side is not without some history. Furthermore, at least two old lines have been climbed on the crag's West flank. One runs 50 or 60ft to a pine tree/rap station. Another wanders the entire length of the west wall, but good luck trying to replicate the line - it has no obvious distinguishing characteristic. In 2002, a five pitch line was installed that punches up on the left side of the East-facing, open-book dihedral. The name of the game here is exposure, with a capital E. More importantly, the large confusion of irregularities has, in fact, turned up some terrific, bullet-proof stone. It appears that the time has come to see what this big puppy holds.
Getting There
Park as for the Catslab/Dog Wall just West of tunnel five. Hop over the guardrail as though heading for the Dog Wall but follow the creek West for 250 yards. This will access the East side of the crag only.
To access the west side, you climb a tree with a rope hanging down. You can clip into loops to sort of back you up. 25 feet up, you cross a tyrolean to the Guppy pod.
Note, if you wade the river, you must lead up to the belay pod to start. Plus, there isn't really a great place to switch shoes below the Guppy pod.
L->R:
A. Rumplemintz, 10+, 1p, 65', bolts. B. 100 Proof, 12-, 1p, 65', bolts. C. Breninivin, 12+, 2p, 150', gear & bolts. ...C1. Variation a, P1, 10. ...C2. Variation b, P1, 10+. D. Shenanigans, 6, 1p, bolts. E. Rhett Wench, 11+, 2p, gear & bolts. F. Fish & Chips, 9+, 1p, 115', bolts. G. Guppy, 8+, 1p, 120', bolts. HF. Crackside Direct, 9+, 1p, 120', gear & bolts. I. Crackside, 9+, 115', gear & bolts.
Solid Gold is a five pitch route that runs 450 ft up the right side of Creek Side. The line picks out the best features of the grey and black slab that starts 20 ft above the water and then fires up the left side of the huge open-book dihedral that splits the upper section at 300 ft. P1: (5.9+, bolts and gear) this is a 100ft pitch that goes on bolts and gear and finishes at a double bolt anchor. The rock is solid all the way and kicks out a coup...[more]Browse More Classics in CO
By jon dickey From: Golden, CO Sep 5, 2009 CONDITION REPORT
LOST GEAR: Found a bunch of gear near the tree on the road side of the tyrolean. It was hanging in a tree and it was definitely not stashed. I picked it up so a fisherman wouldn't walk off with it. Identify it and I'm happy to get it back to you.
Four or five new routes at the lower Creekside wall right off of the water East (climbers right) of the Brennivin Roof.
Routes (starting from right to left):
Crackside* -- 5.9+ (one move wonder), mixed gear/3 bolts, SR to #3Camalot, 85', original route traverses right (crux) after arching crack ends, to pick up another hand crack, ends on ledge with two bolt rap anchor.
Crackside Direct (var.)* -- 10a mixed/4 bolts, SR to #1Camalot, 115', climb above where crack ends, and beeline to the finger crack above and traversing bolts to shared rappel anchors of Guppy.
Guppy* -- 5.8, 13 bolts, 115'.
Fish and Chips* -- 5.9+, 14 bolts, 115'.
Rhett Wench* -- P1. 5.6 5 bolts, 70' P2. 5.11c/d 12 bolts 80-90' Climbs the left black slab, grey shield capped by two massive roofs.
APPROACH Beta: Dirt pull-off before guard rail at east side of tunnel 6, CDOT doesn't like you parking on the road next to the guard rail. These routes on this section of wall is accessed only by a tyrolean traverse! Tyrol starts 25 feet up from a cottonwood (the warm up route! -- 5th class, jugs the whole way) directly to a pod belay at small pine (AKA "Booty Snatcher Belay") at start of Fish and Chips (left) and Guppy (right). Consider bringing some jumars or tiblok. Three bolt traverse (5.2) right to the belay of Crackside routes. OR Fixed (!!!) handline 15' left to the belay of Rhett Wench. All belays are bolted.
DESCENT Beta: YOU WILL NEED A 70M ROPE OR TWO ROPES to safely rap Guppy or Fish and Chips. If you are careful, when you pull the rope, it shouldn't fall into the drink. You will eventually have to end up back to the pod belay where you will be able to tyrol back.
OTHER NOTES: traffic noise!! consider radios. 70meter rope or two ropes for rappels/jumar makes life easier on the tyrol (better yet, a petzl traxion..) helmet, camera -- very cool location/perspective!
I have some hand drawn topos if you really want/need them. Give me a call and I will be happy to share them.
Love this little area, great spot for a half day of climbing. That in mind, I was wondering when the last time the tyrol was replaced? The rope looks to be in great condition, but the tree has grown around the rope in some spots, not sure what this does to the integrity of the rope, and it isn't exactly easy to check! Seemed solid when I ran across it this past weekend, but it crossed my mind on the way back. The line snapping mid traverse would be pretty devastating....
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