The Monkey House is the leftward continuation of The Wall of The '90s. There are now 16 or so routes in this sector of the wall. Numbering begins with Psycho Hose Beast (1) which is immediately to the left of New Pollution and continues on up hill to Home Boy Bonanza (18) at the Death Rock. Routes vary in length from 50 - 60 ft to 85 ft, so for the most part a 60 m rope will suffice for everything. The routes face West to North, get good evening sun, and a bit of shade higher up the hill. Overall, the rock quality is superb and worth the five minutes of added hike from The Wall of The '90s.
Getting There
The Monkey House is immediately West of Tunnel 2, 5.5 up Clear Creek Canyon on 6th Avenue. Parking for several cars is available on the South side of the highway, but this has been recently limited by CDOT. Trails to the base follow the obvious wash or the small ridge line at the parking area.
L->R:
Death Rock
A. Homeboy Bonanza, 12, 1p, bolts. B. The Sprawl, 12, 1p, bolts.
This is a crimper's delight. It is also good for the reach impaired as there are a lot of tiny intermediates. This is the route just left of Punishment for Shoplifting which is much discussed in the comments for that route.This is continuous, vertical 11- in the bottom half, then cruxy off-vertical climbing on solid rock with variously oriented, small holds from bolts 6 to 8. There are a couple of decent rests before the business. Bonus: the crux clips are pretty easy....[more]Browse More Classics in CO
Has anyone been on or done the route that is listed as a 5.12? project up at the Monkey House that is between the 11c and 10d? Has this had a free ascent (I assume it has)? What is the grade guess? Sweet line that is much harder than it looks.
Anonymous... I have toproped the 5.12 line you speak of at the Monkey House. I think it is 5.12b. Near the end is some very difficult steep slab moves with some long reaches for not so positive crimps. I sandbagged my partner into leading it a while ago because I wanted to climb it... "hey, man, its only 12a, I think, give it a go, bolts are close!..."
The unknown 12 is kind of runout and not fun for tiny (5 foot) people. The top runout is especially bad for short people. My son got on this thinking it was Monkey See and had a really hard time.