The Highlands aka Highlander

BETA PHOTO: Taken 10/20/02.

Description 

The crag is located on top of the hill above the New River Wall. It is an excellent crag that receives lots of sun. This makes for great winter crag. The routes here tend to be vertical to overhung, often containing small roofs to navigate. The bolting is generous and safe. Overall, this is a great area, but the twenty minute approach limits its popularity. That said, this cliff makes for a less-crowded climbing area if you are willing to walk a little. Most routes are in the 5.10 - 5.11 range, with a few 5.12s that are very good. It should be noted that many of the 5.10 lines are soft for the grade and make good routes for the 5.9 leader who is aspiring to lead 5.10. Most of the routes are on solid stone, but some of the less traveled routes will have some loose rock, still. In general, the right (main) wall is very solid, while the routes on the left side tend to be a bit more loose.

Getting There 

Park at the large paved pullout before Tunnel 2. Walk up the road on the right side and cross the bridge. Then look to your right and locate a small climbers trail heading back dowstream (same as for The New River Wall). Continue on this trail above a treacherous section of cliff and past Twitch Rock. The trail continues up to a flat area, where the faint trail for New River Wall heads right and downstream. Stay on the main trail (left fork), heading up hill. Continue up the trail, with some slabby rock sections for about 400 yds to the top. The trail will put you a little left of a prominent, right-facing dihedral with two bolted lines on it (Peer Pressure (5.12a) and Peer Review (5.12b), and a trad climb in the corner. This is the main division of the wall and represents the landmark for the wall, splitting it into right and left sides. Routes listed will be in reference to this dihedral. Allow 20 minutes for the approach.

Addendum: some may use the optional, riskier Tyrolean.

L->R: 

Left Face

A. Tarzan, 12+, 1p, bolts.
B. Leap of Faith, 12+ 1p, bolts.
C. Microchip, 13, 1p, bolts.
DC. Unknown, 13?, 1p, bolts.
E. Wind Machine, 11+, 1p, bolts.
F. Highlander, 10+, 1p, bolts.
G. Stiff Upper Lip, 12-, 1p, 70', bolts.

Main Face

H1. Get a Life, 7, 1p, 150', gear.
H2. Get Insurance, 9+, 1p, 150', gear.
I. Get a Job, 11-, 1p, 135', bolts.
J. Job Review, 11-, 1p, 135', bolts.
K1. Peer Pressure, 12, 1p, 120', bolts.
K2. Peer 42, 13-, 1p variation to K3, bolts.
K3. Peer Review, 12, 2p, 100?', bolts.
K4. Gearhead, 9, 1p, 75',gear.
K5. Airhead, 9+, 1p, 70', bolts.
L. Herb-A-Med-Veg-A-Matic, 11-, 1p, 95', bolts.
M. Neo-Quasi Bugaloo, 10-, 1p, 100', bolts.
N. Learning to Crawl, 10-, 1p, 100', bolts.
O. Blue Sky Mining, 11+, 1p, 85', bolts.
P. Burning Chrome, 11, 1p, 85', bolts.
Q. Job Security, 11, 1-2p, 150', bolts.
R. Not One of Us, 12-, 3p, <200', bolts.
S. Resume, 9, 1p, bolts.
T. The Outsider, 11+, 1p, 95', bolts.
U. Smack that Bitch Up, 11, 1p, 100', bolts.
V. Big Man on Campus, 12-, 1p, 100', bolts.

East Face

W. Drop Zone, 10, 1p, 80', bolts.
X. Dirt Me, 12- PG-13, 1p, 80', bolts.
Y. Lord of the Rings, 10, 1p, bolts.

Below East Face

Z. Wheezer, 12-, 1p, bolts.
AAZ. Geezer, 11+, 1p, bolts.

The Classics

Featured Route For The Highlands aka Highlander

Not One Of Us 5.12a  CO : Golden : ... : The Highlands aka Highlande...

I'll give credit to Alan Nelson for red pointing pitch three first in 1996, but this baby is all mine. I'll hang tough on this point because every now and then the rest of our lives intrudes upon the serenity of our climbing gig. I put up this whole line one week in 1995 after having been denied academic promotion for highly dubious reasons. As a member of that politically incorrect breed of white angelo-male, I was simply "Not One Of Us". I pu...[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

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BETA PHOTO: The crag, from the road.