Start off with the big reach on small but good crimps. More of the same as you get higher. Crux comes about half way up off of very small foot holds on slabby crimpers. Be aware, there is a small chockstone a little past midway that is unavoidable (as far as I can tell) for both hand and foot holds. It seems secure but messes with your head.
Location
This alcove is around to the right and faces the opposite direction as the main face. To get their hike as you would to the main face but continue up the scree and talus field instead of taking the trail right. Pass the very steep wall with 4 routes on it, right after take a sharp left in the alcove. Can’t miss it. This route is the third to the right (going left to right).
Protection
5 bolts and anchors chains. Shares anchors with the route to the right.
By Royce Simpson From: Fort Collins, CO Jul 13, 2008 rating: 5.10b/c
This is a super fun short line with moderate difficulty edging for the first third, then a crimper side pull crux that gets you into a nice finger crack before the anchors. As far as I can tell from the descriptions of the other routes in the Alcove, this is the third (and last) line from left to right. The one left of this is Inyerbuttkwa (10+), then left of that is County Line (5.8).
I'm not sure about the 11+ rating. I'll cast my vote for mid 10.
RSS Feed
