This route, and its neighbors to the climber's left, are rather steep. The characteristics of rock differs from other areas in the Palace, as it is smoother and featured primarily by crack systems.
The route starts just left of Gossip Column, following the arete for 10 feet or so before moving out left. Follow the crack systems up from there.
Location
Follow the Cedar Creek trail past the mine shaft. The route is in the narrow gully to the right. Dear Slabby is the first route, closest to the arete.
A great route with good varied climbing. It would be much more rewarding, albeit still safe if it were a mixed pro route with say only three bolts plus cams.
Possibly my very favorite single pitch sport route to date. I feel, even knowing how to jam, that early .11 is a good old school rating for the route. The second quarter of the route includes strong crimp moves, strange off finger size jams, and laybackish moves.
My favorite route at The Palace. I ended up coming back and doing it with pro and clipping some of the bolts just to be safe and it was sooo much more fun! Definitely recommend this route!
By Paul Carlson From: fort phil collins, co Oct 24, 2009 rating: 5.11b
Awesome route with hand and finger jams, lie backs, face climbing, and traversing. Watch out for loose rock in left crack near top!
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