The Eden area consists of a collection of mostly mixed climbs with a couple of pure trad and pure sport lines. All routes are a single pitch, and some require 2 ropes to rap down. In my opinion, the crown jewel of this area and possibly of all Poudre Canyon is the trad line East Of Eden (5.9). This area is right next to the road and also directly across from a portion of the narrows of the Cache la Poudre river. So in other words, communication can be difficult at best once your off the deck.
Getting There
Eden is located about 19.5 miles up the canyon from the intersection of CO 14 and US 287 (Ted's Place). There is a pull out on the right, directly below the climb East of Eden (a right-facing dihedral). There are also some caution signs for climbers near the pull out which may help identify the area.
The Classics
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Eden area:
This is a favorite 1-pitch route. It ascends the obvious right facing dihedral directly above the Eden area pullout. Hike a few feet upslope from the pullout to a nice level belay spot. I would advise the belayer at the base to anchor in since the crux is only a few feet off the deck and a fall could result in both people rolling down slope into their car (or the road) below.As noted above, the crux is only a little ways off the deck, but high ...[more]Browse More Classics in CO
There is a climb to the left of East of Eden, in the next opening. It's 9 bolts, has good crimps and pulls through a nice roof. Does anyone know anything about it, or have beta for the other routes up there? It was a fun climb, I would say it's an easy .11.
I believe the climb your refering to is Original Sin, 10c which would make it around 5.11 since most of the older routes in the canyon are sandbagged. It's just left of another sport route with missing hangers, and right of a cave/gully.
The only guidebook I've seen any of these Poudre routes in is Peter Hubbel's out of print guidebook called 'Front Range Crags' 1993.
They will probably be in Craig Luebbens new guidebook when it's finished.
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