Beached Whale 

Ben can do it

I'm not gonna be an ass about this but this problem is [definitely] not v2+ it is more like a v0- but it is an ok problem.

It's pretty height dependent - that first move is big and it's a blind slap. I've seen very strong shorter climbers flail - I'm tall and think V0- is rather generous.

For everyone that believes that this is V0-, are you sure you are thinking of the right problem. I believe this line goes left from the starting holds to slopers, then a mantle up over the top utilizing a side pull. If you go right from the starting hold, and use anything on the right side of the arete, then V0 would be accurate, but if you stay left of the arete, V2+ is a more accurate grade.

Yes, that's the problem I'm talking about. V0- for me, but like I said, it's very height dependent.

It is like v9 it is so hard it took me three years and I only did it once on top rope with 9 spotters and a trifold crash pad it is hard hard hard. If you think it is v2 you must be as good as Tom Cruise and he is really good like in MI2 that was killer.

Guys, lets try to keep this site mature and not talk about how a route is "gay". Besides, even if the route was gay that wouldn't lessen its grade one bit. Personally I felt this route to be a classic, and the v2+ rating seemed fair.

I did this today, and [I don't] believe its v2+. I would rate this a v1 to v1+. Top out is pumpy, rest is easy if you find the right holds.

Ummm...does it count if I sent it without using the sloper to the left of the arete??

I threw it down in the 2nd day I was in Ft. Collins. It was tough but it was a super fun climb. Ripped up my fore-arms, but it's worth it.

This is a good problem to work on for a while, but once you hit it the problem is more like a V1 and that seems to take some of the fun out.

If you use the right holds without the right side of the problem (near the top), it's more of a V2+, but if you use the hold near the top it does drop it down. I would say a smaller person with not a big reach won't be able to do it the best.

Not sure if it's a problem on here or not, but I will post this regardless. For a fun variation (which I have yet to do), start on the bomber jug and, instead of throwing the heel and moving onto the "flake", throw from the jug to the finger pocket on the sloper with your left. It's an awkward, short "dyno," but I know people have done this variation before. If you think the standard "Beached Whale" is too easy, give this variation a try!

Everytime I'm out in CO, I go to this problem and really bust my arms on this one. But it's worth losing the skin on your forearms to get the problem done. Hike to it and Do it.

Did the eliminate of this the other day (the flake you go to from the starting bloc is off for feet and hands). It definitely makes going back to Beached Whale worthwhile again. If you've gotten tired of sending the standard, aren't working Mammen Traverse, and it's a hot day, get into the shade and try the eliminate, I promise you'll like it!

Anyone know if this has a name or what it reportedly goes at?

If you've sent the eliminate but still can't bring yourself to leave the shady bliss of this boulder try this. Begin by traversing the east face ("East Face" traverse on this site) from the NE prow (near end of east face traverse) to the left, using whatever you want. When you reach the ledge approximately 6 ft right of beached whale, drop down low. From here make an awkward move left to gain the starting hold of beached whale around the corner. Top out via standard beached or try it with the eliminate. Moderately harder and definitely more interesting.

Another good variation is to start on the jug, move to the flake but then either cross to a pinch or gaston with your left then move to the slopers and top out. If you gaston with your left, I would just use it as an intermediate then bump to the top, not that hard. But crossing to the pinch is real interesting and significantly harder. Will post picture marked "fun variation".