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Eliminator Boulder
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Right Eliminator 

V4

   

FA: Gill
Type: Boulder
Consensus: V3-4 [details]
Views: 1,650 page views

Submitted By: Jesse Ryan on Jul 15, 2001


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Southeast Reservoir is closed.

The Eliminator Boulder, climber on the Right Elimi...


Description 

Climb the classic SW arete of the Eliminator boulder on the West face. Jump, lockoff, or otherwise crank from the crimps up to lefthand layback, then up (easiest variation grabs arete then grabs traingle and up from there). Eliminator boulder is the largest one, just downhill from the parking lot, 15 yards from the ridgeline.


Protection 

A Pad is nice for the hard dirt landing.



Photos of Right Eliminator Slideshow Add Photo
Chris topping out (c) Jesse Ryan

Chris topping out (c) Jesse Ryan

Mark Wilford around 1976 on the Right Eliminator.

Mark Wilford around 1976 on the Right Eliminator.


Comments on Right Eliminator Add Comment
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By Old Fart aka Dave Bohn
Jan 4, 2002

The "Original" Right Eliminator disappeared at least 20 years ago. The crux move was a wrapped loop of your index or middle finger and thumb around a pigeon egg sized iron-stone concretion with your right hand and then a dyno to the prominent horn starting off of the huge slab that "USED" to be at the start of both of the 2 Gill routes. At some point in the early 80's some lowlife managed to dig out the slab and garden the now cushy landing. At the same time the "egg" broke and it's remnants are the sharp black "tooth" . Also the great flat edge that most people dyno to to start the arete or standard version wasn't there. It used to be a horrible sloper side pull but that broke off too, and the result was the great flat edged hold that is the first good hold on either route. That said, the arete was undoable until the sidepull broke and the new hold formed but in doing so opened up the best route at all of Rotary the "Arete".

By John Gill
Feb 21, 2003

Oh dear ! I haven't inspected it in a long time. It's too bad the holds broke off and the base was altered (or wore away). It used to be a delightful dynamic problem. But it sounds like something good was born out of the unintentional gardening, like a phoenix from the ashes.

By Krister Sorensen
Jul 25, 2003

I must say that I don't think that this is a V4. The Prow is much harder and it a V4. I give it a V3. Although it is highly recommended.

By Jesse Ryan
Aug 11, 2006

Other starting BETA: for those who like little crimps and want something different than the sometimes frustrating, sometimes fun, jump start, try this 'static' start. Uses obvious R crimp and small L crimp in the seam. Perch on the L foot (where most paste the right for the jump start) and dead hang pasting the right foot high on the far face (sometimes you'll nab a toe hook). Crank. This option might open the line up to those who are vertically challenged but can crimp down.