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Howard just above the crux of the route on pitch 2...
Description
Past the base of Grapevine (west) is an immense left facing arch. The first pitch of Eumenides climbs the left-most dihedral of this arch. The arch itself is composed of about 4-5 left-facing dihedrals, Progression climbs the second one from the right. This dihedral may also be identified by a beautiful white corner (only about 30' high) at the start of the second pitch (the crux).
Scramble up to the base of the dihedral.
P1: climb the interesting crack as it shoots up through featured green rock (lichens). This is a fun and well protected 5.8 pitch. The pitch ends at a spectacular stance at the base of the white corner.
P2: Lieback up the white corner to a flared hand jam, solve the crux and crank over a strange looking black flake. Although you can place a stopper every 2' in the white dihedral, the placements are flared and tricky and will pump you out. Continue on up a bombay chimney (5.8, 3.5" piece useful) with wild stemming moves to belay on a huge ledge.
At this point you are about 30' above the top of the second pitch of Grapevine, and you can continue on Grapevine. Or continue via ... [description supplied by Scott Kimball].
Pitch #3 climbs a tiny, LF dihedral with a roof, on sharp face holds but thin protection (5.9). The Gillett guide mentions mildly unprotected faceclimbing above this roof (i.e. fall on ledge), a safer alternative is 20ft. right, tagging onto Grapevine, then belay on the far left edge ot a fine, sitdown ledge.
Pitch #4 Left to the brink and stem up a left-facing dihedral that forks after 40ft. Left is 5.10 and flaky looking; Right is nice, sustained and 5.9 and finishes atop the ledge system common for routes in this area.
Pitch #3 climbs a tiny, LF dihedral with a roof, on sharp face holds but thin protection (5.9). The Gillett guide mentions mildly unprotected faceclimbing above this roof (i.e. fall on ledge), a safer alternative is 20ft. right, tagging onto Grapevine, then belay on the far left edge ot a fine, sitdown ledge.
Pitch #4 Left to the brink and stem up a Lf dihedral that forks after 40ft. Left is 5.10 and flaky looking; Right is nice, sustained and 5.9 and finishes atop the ledge system common for routes in this area.
Add this to your 'must do' list for Sundance. That includes the third and fourth pitches. Climb them. Climb Grapevine on another day, if you havent' already. If you like to lie-back -- and who doesn't -- you'll like this. Sew up the crux with your small wireds and dig into some of Lumpy's best white granite with a crux 150 feet off the floor.
By Guy Humphrey From: Fort Collins CO Sep 28, 2008
The largest piece that you need for the crux pitch is a #3 Camalot. I brought a #4 Friend and didn't place it on the climb. The bombay chimney above the crux is fun and secure. It is also well protected with hexs and/or medium cams.
Sundance Buttress
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