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Pseudo Wallet Eater 

5.9

   

FA: ?
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.9 [details]
Length: 4 pitches, 500 feet, Grade II
Views: 210 page views

Submitted By: Errett Allen on Mar 12, 2004


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Photo by Errett Allen. Me on the first pitch. I ...


Description 

Start about 30-40 feet left of the start of Osiris.

P1. Easy scramble past some bushes up into a wide chimney-crack system. You'll encounter a knot of backoff slings that you can't see from the ground about 90-100 feet up. From that point climb up and right under a diagonal jog in the crack system, then continue following it when it jogs straight up again (5.9) and belay on a nice but small ledge.

P2. Step right into an obvious crack/dihedral (5.7) and continue to a belay ledge where this route intersects Osiris.

P3a. Step right and follow a crack between Osiris and George's Tree, or....

P3b. Step back left and follow a series of closely spaced parallel cracks (5.7) to Fang Ledge, left of the Fang (this is what we did -- these are the numerous parallel cracks that are visibile and obvious from the approach trail -- the "pages" of the Book). I found these "Pages" surprisingly clean and fun.

P4.Follow Osiris to the top.If you are not one of the whiners who hates Osiris, you won't hate this route either. The only unenjoyable part of the route was the start.


Protection 

Standard trad rack up to 4 inch.



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By Shane Z
From: Colorado
Apr 29, 2002

Several weeks ago I climbed 'Psuedo Wallet Eater'. This is located directly left of 'Osiris'. I can't give too much detailed information about the climb because of the time factor involved. However, the route was excellent. It finishes between Osiris and George's Tree. I placed everything from small stoppers to my #4 camalot. Refer to a guidebook for a more detailed description of the route.

By Errett Allen
Aug 20, 2004

The right hand third pitch variation mentioned is quite good and goes at 5.9. Then you can follow the George's Tree finish to the top.

By Cale Farnham
From: loveland,CO
Sep 10, 2008

Small stuff up to #3 and #4 Camalot! Very unique and tricky in a few spots! Good protection and overall a fun climb!