This route has access issues. Please read the note available on the Lumpy Ridge page.
Description
I do not lead 5.12c, but I have done the first pitch of this route and felt it was appropriate to post this because this wall holds supposedly the toughest crack in Colorado at 5.13d as well as other respectable routes. The route as well as the route name is called Renaissance Wall and is located just to the west of The Book. Hike to the second corredor west of the book and hike up until you see some steep sport routes on your right. The route is the last one on the right. The first pitch is a couple 5.11 moves off the ground and fun flake pulling afterwards. The second pitch is the tough sustained 5.11/5.12, and the last a 5.11 pitch.
I would suggest a 70 meter rope for this route which enables you to belay the second pitch from the ground. You can lower to the first pitch anchors then again from there. Also the rock deteriorates a bit at the top of the second pitch. Third pitch therefore is not so recommended.
I got a belay from the ground and made it to the top of the 3rd with a 60m rope (after backcleaning the first pitch), but wont do it that way next time. Clipping through the tenuous crux section was dire, what with the combination of drag and rope weight. Which is a shame as doing it all in one makes for an outstanding long pitch.
This was a 2 pitch climb when I first did it. The first pitch was 5.10. The second pitch had 15 bolts and went to the top of the wall. I added the bolts after the crux so you could get down with a single 50m rope.I think the best way is to combine what people call the last 2 pitches.Maybe I should remove the rap station after the crux?
I think this climb is awesome!! Although out of character for most Lumpy ridge climbs I think it is one of the best I have done at Lumpy. Like Randy says it should be done in 2 pitches. The second pitch when done combinig what people here are calling the 2nd a 3rd pitch makes for an incredible and sustained pitch of climbing. I could barely lift the rope to clip in at the end.
It is nice to be able to get off with one rope. So, Randy I would not recommend pulling the anchors you put in. Just need to educate folks on how the first ascent was envisioned.
The Book
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