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Paul Giglio making it go with Erik Corkran and his...
Description
This route is on Hen and Chicken Rock, the 100 ft. high buttress (with a pointy summit) just below the SE corner of the East Owl. Take the approach trail which branches left about 1/4 mile up the Gem Lake Trail, and lead right to the rock. Cackle Crack is the excellent hand crack in the large, left-facing corner on the rock's right side. Climb it to where it becomes a finger crack and belay on a ledge below the summit block; go north and hike down east to descend.
You can scramble to the top of Hen and Chickens Rock, around the summit, and very carefully down to a small, exposed ledge to set up a funky TR off of gear. A 50 meter rope barely works if you reach the lowest ledge. However if you have the wherewithal to do this safely, you should probably be leading the route. In other words, I can recommend hiking all the way up to Hen and Chicken Rock if you are only seeking top-roping.
This is an excellent first 5.8 trad lead. Not too long, bomber gear, good rests, and very aesthetic. When I did it, I ended up rapping off a two-bolt anchor to the left and at the same height as the top of the Cackle Crack dihedral - a short but sketchy traverse that could send you swinging back into the dihedral, but an alternative way of rapping off.
The Hen and the Chickens, ie cackle crack, yosemite crack(there are more) are not included in the raptor closure. This explained on the NPS closure notice at the twin owls trailhead.
By Andrew Gram Administrator From: Denver, CO Sep 1, 2002
Yeah, it is only 1 pitch, but I would give it 3 stars. One of the finest pitches of 5.8 hand jamming I have ever seen anywhere. Rapping from the bolted anchor is not recommended because you miss another 30 feet of great climbing!
I agree that this climb is an excellent choice for a first 5.8. It only has one difficult section about 15 feet up, and the rest is easier. You only need a few larger pieces down low, and the rest of the climb takes smaller gear. When you reach the top create a belay so you can look out at longs and the rest of the Estes Valley. Its great! Its also quit a bit shorter approach than many of the climbs on lumpy so you can get there after dinner and climb till the sun goes down without trobule.
What a great 5.8. I think this climb, although short, deserves a three star rating. I find myself coming back to this one. Nice jamming with the rest spots spaced perfectly.
I'd bring a couple of larger pieces for this one. I left the #3.5 and #4 Camalots in the car and was longing for them on lead. I found myself scooting the #3 up with me as I went so it all worked out.
If you belay at the pinnacle at the top of crack, it turns into a two pitch route. A good option for practicing multipitch climbing. We rapped off a sling around the pinnacle. The traverse to the bolts looked pretty thin and dicey.
I have seen a lot of people ending the pitch at the top of one of the blocks by the bolts. I think it seems kinda sketchy to move over to them. You can get about 20 feet more of good climbing if you keep climbing the crack that goes up and to the left and really top out, from which you can walk off of. That last part does not have good feet so its hard to stop and protect it, but the climbing is fun.