This route has access issues. Please read the note available on the Lumpy Ridge page.
Sara Reeder following Between The Sheets.
Description
Splitter, thin crack and face climbing on the West Face of the Bookmark. The guidebooks say to approach from the first two pitches of Fantasy Ridge. Sounds good. but we scrambled to the ledge below the crack. You can do it either way. The route is obvious from the ledge.
P1 - Climb the thin cracks to a 2 bolt anchor. 5.11+.
P2 - Traverse right to the buttress and face climb to the top. 5.10d.
The manky, quarter-inch spinners at the anchor have been replaced with three-eighths bolts with steel rings. It makes the hanging belay a little less spooky. An interesting note for those of you who have rapped off these recently, one of them popped out with a very gentle tap from a crowbar!
This is one great route. In Malcolm's comments, he rates the first pitch at 5.11+ rather than 11b. I believe the former is more accurate. Thin, a little hard to see the placements at the crux, superlative rock, great climbing.
This is the best climb I have ever done. It takes superb gear and is sustained thin climbing with a few thank God finger jams. 5.11d, I thought.
By Bob Rotert From: Broomfield, Co Oct 9, 2005 rating: 5.11d
Did this route yesterday with Richard Aschert and both of us agreed it is a great route. Also agreed the 11 c rating was a bit under what the route should be rated. To try and help with concensus on rating this route. For a onsight trad lead, we both agreed if we were to split the letter grades, it might be closer to 11d/12a [than] 11d/11c. But letter grades can be like splitting hairs. I prefer the the 11 minus, solid 11, or 11 plus rating system where I would have no problem calling this 11+. And whats with Malcom writing this up as 11b and then in the description saying it is 11+. Sorry, but I'm confused! Regardless of that it has lots of good, sustained climbing with a hard crux at the end, just before getting to the belay bolts. Protection is good but can be a little testy gettting in on lead. Pro is mostly RPs and small stoppers.
This pitch is a great trad lead. In the tradition of trad climbing, the belay could be avoided if one wanted to add difficulty, since this is not really a spot where the climbing stops or is even an actual rest. If one wanted they could by pass the belay and continue the line to the top before belaying. We did not do this. I was glad to get to be able to lead up to the belay bolts without falling and off my aching feet!! Hats off to Malcolm & Bill for this plum!!
Does anyone know what the "Seam Direct" finish is all about on P.2? Rather then breaking right around the bulge, you would stay in the seam. From what I remember: there was a fixed nut and 2 bolts (with red tags).
The Bookmark
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