Bonzo 

The heat wasn't fryin' your brain! I did Chain of Command in '94, and there were no bolts on the second pitch back then, either. It is still possible to lead this pitch, protecting it using a few TCUs. You move right off the belay and then more or less straight up, as I recall (the whole pitch is less than 50' long). The hardest move is right off the belay, and there is a 2 bolt anchor to end the pitch.

I agree, Bonzo is way cool!

Another landmark to find the route is the huge roof on the Turnkorner Buttress; the hanging corner is below the left edge of the roof (which is about 400 feet up). The long, dirty chimney system which marks the left edge of Turnkorner Buttress (separating it from Guillotine Wall) lies just left of Bonzo.

SANDBAG!!!!!

This is undoubtedly a superb pitch of corner-work. I highly recommend it, but only with the warning that it is HARD for the grade. Getting into, and then out of, the corner were the technical cruxes for me, but the whole line was nice and sustained. Definitely continue with Chain Of Command also. People say the bolts are bad, but if you got up Bonzo you won't fall on Chain Of Command.

When Larry Day & I put up chain of command in the 80s there where two old fixed pins in the corner about 10 ft past the roof. We yanked them and spent a couple afternoons cleaning the crack. It was chooked full of dirt. We put in the two bolt belay .Mike Caldwell & I Came back and bolted the next two pitches on lead over a period of three days or so because we were getting pounded by some of the most violent thunderstorms I have ever seen at lumpy. Anyway the bolting was less than perfect at the time and certainly needs to be updated!

I thought this was harder than Mr P, but maybe I was just tired. A great crack climb, that I will tape-up for next time. Good name for the route next to Mr P.--Ross

The route is a little loose in spots to be called the best route at Lumpy. It is also a little short, and not as good... It's a 2-star route with nice tricky and insecure moves with some small runouts and tricky gear, along with some bad rock. 3-star? No. 5.10b? No.

Anchors are one good bolt + ring (Fixe style) and one with a twist link. They are OK, but the twist-link faces off 90 deg and needs a link of chain to run right for pulling rope.

2 stars is on the generous side, but it's better than 1 star for sure, so I guess I'll give it that. Just for the bad rock alone (yes, I snapped off a flake or two, but I used a lot I didn't really trust that held) I have to take one off. Plus, it's a 110' pitch. How can 110' be the classic of a 600' cliff? Finishing on Chain Of Command adds some quality and makes this a good solid 2-star line.

5.10c/d? It felt like 10d, but I admit that I am not dialed into Lumpy, so I'll say least 10c though. I found it just as hard but more sustained than Chain Of Command. The climbing is somewhat similar to Romulan Territory dihedral, but a lot harder and less secure. If you skip all of the questionable holds, it gets harder still. So maybe between the difficulty of Romulan Territory on the Book at Lumpy and the dihedral pitch of Vertigo, in Eldo.

It's great to hear from the first ascensionist why many of the bolts on Chain of Command are so bad. I replaced the anchor today with two new 3/8" stainless bolts and the second bolt which was a rusted 1/4". One more 1/4" and a half-in 3/8" before the traverse to the anchors still need replacement.

I basically agree w/ Tony B's comments except that I didn't have any problem w/ loose rock.

Tape would have made it easier, but it always does. I peeled of quite a bit of flaky crap trying to get a decent stem. It seemed a little dirty. First moves off the ground wake you up and the pull into the corner were the best on the route. Don't TR off of the anchors the way they are (extend them) or your rope gets horrible (horriable?)twists going. HB offsets are THE gear for the route!

Great climbing, great gear (except for the easier start). Nice variety to do Bonzo's jamming, with the face climbing of Chains of Command.

Our team of 3 was humiliated by this climb. We started up it thinking, "5.10b hands, how hard can it be?" Maybe we'd get pumped and have to hang once or twice. We had all just been to the Montrail Splitter Camp at Indian Creek (fun time!) and had TR'd some 11a thin hands without too much trouble. I immediately hung twice at the first crux. Above that I was optimistic, but ended up making a couple of moves, flailing to get gear, hands squirting out hang. After repeating that about 5 times and making maybe 10' of "progress", I went down. Chuck repeated my antics, and then eventually more or less aided to the top. Luke did much better on TR, figuring out a few tricks, but still fell a bunch of times. Then I went up on TR and did it with one fall at the bottom.

There are basically no good hand jams. There are some fair jams that suck as you move up on them. The stems tend to push you to the right and out of the jams. One thing we learned was to not try to get the stems too soon. The other trick is to get over your feet quickly. You can't lean out for very long before your hands start to squirt out. So get your hips over your feet immediately.

I'll call this 10d. I [don't] climb real hard at Lumpy, but I've onsighted Romulan Territory 10c and Ziggie's Day Out 10d (very different type of climbing), and Bonzo was way harder than those. Or maybe I've been climbing at Eldo too much.

Hey Ivan, I don't get it, If you can toprope 11a in Indian Creek, you should most definitely be able to lead any 5.10 for that matter at a traditional granite crag like Sundance, What gives? FYI, Romulan Territory is 5.10-.5.10a/b if it makes you feel better.

I recently had a similar humbling experience on this route as Ivan did. It will expose any flaws in your flared thin hand and finger jamming technique. Since it is a corner, it seems stemming would be helpful but I agree with Ivan that many times this seems to pull you away from the jams, terrible as they may be.