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Batman Pinnacle
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Batman and Robin 
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Batman and Robin 

5.6

   

FA: ?
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.6 [details]
Length: 4 pitches, Grade II
Views: 3,445 page views

Submitted By: Charles Vernon on Jan 1, 2001


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This route has access issues. Please read the note available on the Lumpy Ridge page.

The start of B & R. Destination is the top of the...


Description 

A great moderate climb to an exciting summit. The first lead for many Lumpy climbers. Hike up past Checkerboard Rock, and find the Batman Pinnacle (visible from the parking lot), which caps a long slab leading up to the SW side of Batman Rock; steeper rocks lie adjacent on the left. Hike up talus to the base of the slab.

P1-climb easy, well-featured rock, aiming for a platform right of a gully but left of a left-leaning, right-facing ramp.

P2-step right, into the 5.4 ramp; belay at its top, or combine with the next pitch. Variation: climb the steep slab and seam directly above the belay to meet the ramp (5.8 R).

P3-climb the left (5.6) or right (5.7) of two good cracks, and belay above a short chimney.

P4-surmount a steep, short corner above the belay, and climb huge, tilted ledges up and right to the summit (5.4).

Descent: Rappel (50M rope) to the east from a fixed anchor, then scramble very carefully further east and survey for a spot to begin heading back right to the base. One can also do a couple more rappels from trees down the gully directly east of the climb (somewhat annoying).


Protection 

Standard rack to a #3 Camalot.



Add Photo Photos of Batman and Robin
Batman Pinnacle fron the SW

BETA PHOTO: Batman Pinnacle fron the SW

The Barker's crlebrate 18 years of marital bliss with a climb on Batman & Robin.  Thats a rock solid marriage!

The Barker's crlebrate 18 years of marital bliss w...

Theo Barker advances up the rock on a very cool anniversary climb.

Theo Barker advances up the rock on a very cool an...

Another view of the pinnacle and the route from bottom to top.

Another view of the pinnacle and the route from bo...

Erik Marr working up the 2nd pitch of Batman and Robin.

Erik Marr working up the 2nd pitch of Batman and R...

Erik Marr rapping off the anchors on top of the Batman Pinnacle.  A little downclimbing and one more rap gets you to the ground.

Erik Marr rapping off the anchors on top of the Ba...

Route in three pitches, with 2 rap descent (summit, last 50').

BETA PHOTO: Route in three pitches, with 2 rap descent (summit...

A man on the summit preparing to...rap?

A man on the summit preparing to...rap?


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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Sep 17, 2007
By Guy Humphrey
From: Fort Collins CO
Jun 25, 2001

It is possible to do this climb in 2 pitches with a 60m rope. At the ledge at the end of the 1st pitch, head up to the left in a wide crack. The second pitch face climbs up and right to join the 3rd pitch. A direct line up the summit block must be taken to make it. This variation is useful when you are behind a slower party.

By Roger Wilkerson
Nov 7, 2001

I suggest only doing the 1st rappel and then walking off. The rap gully tends to direct any rockfall onto one's helmet. Ouch. We only found one rap anchor & did a 105' rap with a 60 meter rope.

By Anonymous Coward
Jan 14, 2002

Descent: The gully is no fun. After rapping from the top, there are two trees in the gully with slings and metal rings to rappel from. It's possible to downclimb most of the gully except for the final 20 ft., which was way too hard for me to downclimb. I would just suggest making the first rappel from the top and then walking farther east before heading down. Mike.

By Errett Allen
Jun 11, 2002

Good descent, if you haven't left anything at the base, is to do the short rap off the summit (or downclimb north or west if you soloed), then third class up either side of Batman Rock and take the approach trail down. Third classing around the east side of Batman involves a short fifth class boulder problem -- gullies on the west side are easier -- don't take the gully closest to Batman but one to the left.

By Ernie Port
From: Boulder, Colorado
Jul 28, 2002

Get there early, at 8 am we were 5th in line. I'm thinking date climb here. The start of P3, the crux slot, requires some thought, and a long reach helps, but my shorter partner had no problem. I recommend a short hike over to the east side of Batman Rock after this route/rappel to Hand Over Hand or Globs of Blobs for more 7ish stuff.

By Brian T. Wandzilak
Sep 3, 2002

This was my first ever trad lead and it was an experience. If you can climb 5.9/10 sport, you will have zero problems with this route. My buddy and I (both from Nebraska) gave it a try, and we more or less walked up it. A quick question though, from the belay ledge at the top of p4, we went around to the side of the pinnacle(left of it looking from the ground) and tried to summit from there, but we couldn't find the line. Do you go straight up from the belay or were we right and just not able to find our way? Thanks and enjoy everyone!

By Chris Fisher
Jun 19, 2003

A great finish to the climb is to rap or downclimb from the summit into the notch between Batman Pinnacle and Batman rock and finish to the top of Batman Rock via Summer Breeze. It is the very obvious finger crack that leads to the small pine. Then take the short hand crack to easier ground then on to the summit. No harder than 5.7-. I then take the descent route down to the base of Batman Rock and climb there before heading back to the backpacks. To get to the base of Batman Pinnacle pass under the east face of Batman Rock and follow a faint path on down.

By Jake Wyatt
From: Longmont, CO
Aug 16, 2003

We found it very easy and natural to combine pitches 2 and 3.

The climb appears to still be very popular. We were first on the rock today, and there were four people at the base when we were starting the p2/3 combo, and another five or six had arrived by the time we finished.

By Jim Matt
From: Fishers, IN
Jun 7, 2004
rating: 5.6

Gear Alert

I've climbed this route twice in the past 9 months...a great route! In fact, it was my first multi-pitch climb 5 years ago (climbed it with a guide). It was nice to go out and free it with my climbing buddies...it is kind of like coming full circle! Anyway, one of the bolts on top of the pinnacle (the one to the rappellers right), the nut holding the hanger on the bolt is a bit loose. I tightened it to the best of my ability with a leatherman last year, and it appeared loose again on 5/23. I hand tightened it, and thought everyone should be aware. Also, the chains up there aren't well equalized, all of your weight seems to be resting on that right-most bolt. Be careful on the downclimb in the gully!

By Alex Chiang
Jun 12, 2004

Cool route. We didn't summit, because we got sleeted on near the top and we just wanted off. Instead of going all the way to the summit and rapping off, we traversed around to the backside where there's an easy downclimb for about 10 feet which will allow you to descend via the west descent gully.

By Gary Schmidt
Jun 18, 2004

Great climb but a bit of a huffer and puffer (and somewhat confusing) of an approach if that is the only route you intend on doing up there. We easily did the route in 3 pitches. Pitch one (somewhat run-out) to an obvious right facing dihedral and belayed just around the corner to keep an eye on second. Pitch two up to the standard ledge before final pitch. Tricky move for 5.4 to get out of there and up on to the top. The descent is not much fun down the east gully. Couple of rappel stations off trees which we didn't need (look left for an easier descent at the second tree belay), but still time consuming to get out of there.

By Anonymous Coward
Dec 4, 2004

A better alternative to rappeling to the east or down climbing is simply to do the first rappel off of the summit (15m) and then walk/traverse west for 75 yards to a gully which can be descended (2nd class) to the ground and back to the base of the climb. Very easy with only the summit rappel required. Enjoy.

By Colin Coulson
Sep 12, 2005

One more comment on the DESCENT. It is possible to rap the 30' to the notch between the pinnacle and Batman Rock then scramble west briefly and then south down towards the base. Just as you reach the Batman Flake the angle increases and there is a rap station. Rap less than 80' to more slings around a horn. When pulling your ropes here, fling them aggressively to keep them clear of the chimney. The final rap from the horn is fairly short. All single rope rappels with a 50 meter. This will put you right back at the base with no obnoxious walk off. Enjoy.

By Andrew
From: Lakewood
Feb 27, 2006

Did this route yesterday, took up a buddy who had only been climbing one time previously. I think I started pitch one too far to the right and ended up standing about 15ft above my last piece of gear and some slabby moves before making it to a big natural anchor. After that it was pretty straight forward, you can easily combine pitch two and three (which seemed to make more sense than putting up a belay between the two). One more easy pitch takes you to the top where you can rap about 30ft, then make a couple of easy down climbs to the gully on the east which ended up putting us right back at the packs, I was amazed out how short the walk off was.

By Leo Paik
Administrator
From: Westminster, Colorado
Jul 23, 2007

Warning!!! Big Loose Rock near Batman Pinnacle. There is a loose rock half the size of a refrigerator immediately below the first large tree (it was actually touching the tree before it came loose) at the top of the gully to the east of Batman Pinnacle. This is one of the suggested rappel routes down from the pinnacle and it just came loose. Until it is knocked loose, everybody should avoid rappeling over it or into the gully below it.

This was submitted as a feedback for the website annonymously but with an email address.

Addendum: apparently an accident occurred where a climber sustained an open leg fracture and required a rescue. There may be loose rock in the vicinity. BEWARE!

By JamesB
Sep 17, 2007

I climbed this route on Sept 16, and left my helmet on the summit! If you find it please call me at 303-507-1562. My name is James. Thanks!