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Both cruxes are visible in this photo. Scory's on...
Description
Truly a wacky, original route! Hike up to Batman rock, scramble up to the center of the cliff (just right of a vertical, reddish wall) and find a long chimney formed by a rock which sits in [front] of the main face. Go through the chimney and belay on top of the rock.
P1-Lean across the chimney (unzip your fly first), and balance onto a small stance on the main cliff. Go up a flake on the left, and wander left up a slab to a belay 20 ft. below the low point of a long roof band.
P2-Hike up to the low point, place a few pieces, and feel blindly to the right for the appropriate jug. Once over it, have a good laugh and then turn the next 5.9 roof, or bypass it more easily to the left. Continue to the top.
Or if you're a coward like me, start a little to the right of the gaping cleft, which is a lot less [committing]. Also, I was surprised (although I shouldn't have been since it's Batman Rock, after all) that there's no pro for 20 feet after pulling the roof, however the climbing is pretty easy. And while the roof itself has good holds (once you find them - it definitely helps to be tall), falling while pulling yourself over it will most likely result in a broken ankle or two since the slab below it is so low angle and your gear is nowhere near the roof's lip.
I don't think a fall from the lip would be that serious. It does have potential, but the fall would be short, and with a relaxed leader and an attentive belayer the threats are greatly minimized.
Also, my memory might be a little hazy since I climbed it 5 years ago, but I think I remember a #1 Metolius TCU placement that is closer to the lip in a small crack up and to the left of the "low point." This would also help reduce the risk of a serious fall.
By Tony Bubb From: Boulder, CO Aug 20, 2006 rating: 5.10-
Since your gear is below the roof at the under-cling against the wall, you'd get sucked in and pulled into the wall. Probably safe, but a lot of broken ankles and wrists seem to happen this way in common "freak" accidents... This climb is arm-length-dependent more so than height-dependent, but we all know that they correlate. Shorter climbers and most women are challenged to reach the under-cling and the jug over the roof in one span. And the climb gets exponentially harder with the further they have to deadpoint- especially since the hold is blind. In 1995, my 5'4" partner, a 5.10 climber just got flat-out rejected.
Just after the roof, one can sling a patch (not quite a chicken-head) on the left with a long sling and runner for some mental security. Sling it correctly and I bet it would hold. Best not to find out, though. Watch out for some kitty litter in the vicinity. The Gillett guide cover has some inspiration for pulling the roof - if you need it.
Batman Rock
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