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Routes in Twin Owls
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Pin Route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Arm and Hammer C2 |
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West Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Bush-league Beefcake T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Wolf's Tooth T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Cavity, The 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C3+ |
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Tiger's Tooth T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Coyote T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R |
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West Owl Direct (aka Silly Putty) T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a C2 R |
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TR Flake-Right side start of W. Owl Direct T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R |
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Anaconda T 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Rattler C3 |
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Condones T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Central Chimney T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Autumn Mist 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c C2 |
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Copperhead C3 |
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Viper C3- |
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King Cobra C2 |
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Crack of Fear T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Peaches and Cream T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Twister T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Tighter Squeeze T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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East Ridge T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Thimbleberry Jam T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Jamesia Jam T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Turn, Turn, Turn T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Rather Fight Than Switch T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Bowels of the Owls, The T 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c |
| Unsorted Routes: | |
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Alignment of the Misaligned T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Black Lichen Streak TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Bloop T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Caught in the Slaughterhouse T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Conan's Gonads (Conad's) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Fist Fight T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Hungry Man V5 6C |
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One of Life's Little Problems T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Organ Pipes T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Parachute Pants T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Prow, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Senseless Meaning T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Sunset Arete T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Thin Crack T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Tilted Mitten T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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True American Pinch V7-8 7B |
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| Type: | Trad, 3 pitches, Grade II |
| FA: | Layton Kor; FFA: Chris Fredericks and Jamie Logan, early 1960s |
| Page Views: | 25,980 total · 88/month |
| Shared By: | Charles Vernon on Dec 31, 2000 · Updates |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: 2024 Partial Seasonal Raptor Closures lifted 7/21/24
Details
From the Denver Post 7/21/24: some of the raptor closures have been lifted, officials announced.
Upper & Lower Twin Owls, Rock One, The Book and access trail, Bookmark, and Left Book were opened based on a park new release.
Closures have been extended for Thunder Buttress, access trail, The Parish, Cathedral Wall.
Closures above the Loch Vale-Sky Pond trail have been extended.
Per Brent Frazier: the raptor closures have been lifted in the Lumpy Ridge and Loch Vale Areas ( nps.gov/romo/raptor-closure…)
Each year, Rocky Mountain National Park initiates temporary closures in certain areas of the park to ensure that birds of prey will be undisturbed during their breeding and nesting seasons. These closures begin on February 15 and continue through July 31, if appropriate. Monitoring by park staff and volunteers have determined that all remaining closures can be lifted on July 28, 2023.
Per Matt Coghill: the Golden eagle nesting activity has extended Lumpy closures through Aug. 15, 2022 on Sundance, Thunder Buttress, and Needle Summit!
Per A.Eaton: the raptor closures have been lifted as of 6/4/2022 at Lumpy for the following formations:
Twin Owls
Rock One
Batman Rock
Batman Pinnacle
Checkerboard
Lightning Rock
Per the Denver Post: as of Feb. 15, 2022, Checkerboard Rock, Lightning Rock, Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Sundance, Thunder Buttress, The Parish, Bookmark Pinnacle, The Left Book, Bookmark, Twin Owls, Rock One, and the Needle are closed for raptor nesting. These closures will continue through July 31, 2022 if needed.
All areas [were] OPEN to climbing for the 2021 post July season.
Closures ending July 31:
Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Lightning Rock, Checkerboard Rock - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Sundance - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
The Book Area: Left Book, The Bookmark, Bookmark Pinnacle, and the entire Book formation (including Renaissance Wall, Isis Buttress, Pages Wall Area, and J-Crack Slab Area)- nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Thunder Buttress and The Parish - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Twin Owls and Rock One - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Cathedral Wall - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
When closed, the closures include the named rock formations and the areas surrounding the base of the formation. This includes all climbing routes, outcroppings, cliffs, faces, ascent and descent routes, and climber's access trails to the formation.
Areas not listed are presumed to be open. These closures will be lifted or extended as conditions dictate.
Upper & Lower Twin Owls, Rock One, The Book and access trail, Bookmark, and Left Book were opened based on a park new release.
Closures have been extended for Thunder Buttress, access trail, The Parish, Cathedral Wall.
Closures above the Loch Vale-Sky Pond trail have been extended.
Per Brent Frazier: the raptor closures have been lifted in the Lumpy Ridge and Loch Vale Areas ( nps.gov/romo/raptor-closure…)
Each year, Rocky Mountain National Park initiates temporary closures in certain areas of the park to ensure that birds of prey will be undisturbed during their breeding and nesting seasons. These closures begin on February 15 and continue through July 31, if appropriate. Monitoring by park staff and volunteers have determined that all remaining closures can be lifted on July 28, 2023.
Per Matt Coghill: the Golden eagle nesting activity has extended Lumpy closures through Aug. 15, 2022 on Sundance, Thunder Buttress, and Needle Summit!
Per A.Eaton: the raptor closures have been lifted as of 6/4/2022 at Lumpy for the following formations:
Twin Owls
Rock One
Batman Rock
Batman Pinnacle
Checkerboard
Lightning Rock
Per the Denver Post: as of Feb. 15, 2022, Checkerboard Rock, Lightning Rock, Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Sundance, Thunder Buttress, The Parish, Bookmark Pinnacle, The Left Book, Bookmark, Twin Owls, Rock One, and the Needle are closed for raptor nesting. These closures will continue through July 31, 2022 if needed.
All areas [were] OPEN to climbing for the 2021 post July season.
Closures ending July 31:
Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Lightning Rock, Checkerboard Rock - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Sundance - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
The Book Area: Left Book, The Bookmark, Bookmark Pinnacle, and the entire Book formation (including Renaissance Wall, Isis Buttress, Pages Wall Area, and J-Crack Slab Area)- nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Thunder Buttress and The Parish - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Twin Owls and Rock One - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Cathedral Wall - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
When closed, the closures include the named rock formations and the areas surrounding the base of the formation. This includes all climbing routes, outcroppings, cliffs, faces, ascent and descent routes, and climber's access trails to the formation.
Areas not listed are presumed to be open. These closures will be lifted or extended as conditions dictate.
Description
This is the hardest climb I have ever done. I can offer a first-hand account of the first two pitches only (we rapped due to the onset of darkness). However, the third pitch could not be more obvious, and if you can do the crux second pitch you should have no problems with it, according to my partner who had done the route previously.
Hike up the Gem Lake trail past a huge boulder, and take the left-hand approach path for Bowls of the Owls and Hen and Chickens Rock. The crack is an obvious wide affair, in a nebulous corner, which runs the entire height of the East Owl (shortly right of a prominent, deep chimney which also reaches the top). It is further recognized by a 30 foot pillar (the Rat's Tooth) which must be ascended to reach the crack's base.
P1. Ascend the hand crack on the left side of the pillar (5.9), or take either of two 5.10 finger cracks to the right. Go up the off-width for about 30 feet, then step left onto the face (to avoid too much punishment!) and climb to a belay ledge with bolts (5.9, 80 feet).
P2. Struggle up past a bulging body jam section (crux, old bolts and a #5 Camalot) and then make a difficult undercling to the left. Fight into a 5.10 chimney and belay at bolts soon after its rear (70 feet).
P3. Continue up the crack with more 5.10 OW, though not as hard. Belay or stretch to the summit, then go west to find the descent.
Hike up the Gem Lake trail past a huge boulder, and take the left-hand approach path for Bowls of the Owls and Hen and Chickens Rock. The crack is an obvious wide affair, in a nebulous corner, which runs the entire height of the East Owl (shortly right of a prominent, deep chimney which also reaches the top). It is further recognized by a 30 foot pillar (the Rat's Tooth) which must be ascended to reach the crack's base.
P1. Ascend the hand crack on the left side of the pillar (5.9), or take either of two 5.10 finger cracks to the right. Go up the off-width for about 30 feet, then step left onto the face (to avoid too much punishment!) and climb to a belay ledge with bolts (5.9, 80 feet).
P2. Struggle up past a bulging body jam section (crux, old bolts and a #5 Camalot) and then make a difficult undercling to the left. Fight into a 5.10 chimney and belay at bolts soon after its rear (70 feet).
P3. Continue up the crack with more 5.10 OW, though not as hard. Belay or stretch to the summit, then go west to find the descent.
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