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Routes in J-Crack Slab Area
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Adventures of B-Dog, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Alien Algorithm T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R |
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Campground, The T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Cave Exit, The T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Cavity, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Endless Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Fascist Drill in the West T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Femp T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Fender T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Happy Camper T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Hurley Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Hurley Traverse T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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J-Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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KOAlien T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R |
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Loose Ends T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Mission Accomplished T,TR 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R |
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Mission Impossible T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Monkey on a String S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Pear Buttress T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Pizza Face T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Right Exit T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Stretch Marks T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Thindependence T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Thinstone T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Turn the Page T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c R |
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Unnamed 5.9 TR TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X |
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Visual Aids T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Weekend Warrior S,TR 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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| Type: | Trad, 5 pitches, Grade II |
| FA: | Layton Kor |
| Page Views: | 69,664 total · 287/month |
| Shared By: | Charles Vernon on Dec 31, 2004 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: 2024 Partial Seasonal Raptor Closures lifted 7/21/24
Details
From the Denver Post 7/21/24: some of the raptor closures have been lifted, officials announced.
Upper & Lower Twin Owls, Rock One, The Book and access trail, Bookmark, and Left Book were opened based on a park new release.
Closures have been extended for Thunder Buttress, access trail, The Parish, Cathedral Wall.
Closures above the Loch Vale-Sky Pond trail have been extended.
Per Brent Frazier: the raptor closures have been lifted in the Lumpy Ridge and Loch Vale Areas ( nps.gov/romo/raptor-closure…)
Each year, Rocky Mountain National Park initiates temporary closures in certain areas of the park to ensure that birds of prey will be undisturbed during their breeding and nesting seasons. These closures begin on February 15 and continue through July 31, if appropriate. Monitoring by park staff and volunteers have determined that all remaining closures can be lifted on July 28, 2023.
Per Matt Coghill: the Golden eagle nesting activity has extended Lumpy closures through Aug. 15, 2022 on Sundance, Thunder Buttress, and Needle Summit!
Per A.Eaton: the raptor closures have been lifted as of 6/4/2022 at Lumpy for the following formations:
Twin Owls
Rock One
Batman Rock
Batman Pinnacle
Checkerboard
Lightning Rock
Per the Denver Post: as of Feb. 15, 2022, Checkerboard Rock, Lightning Rock, Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Sundance, Thunder Buttress, The Parish, Bookmark Pinnacle, The Left Book, Bookmark, Twin Owls, Rock One, and the Needle are closed for raptor nesting. These closures will continue through July 31, 2022 if needed.
All areas [were] OPEN to climbing for the 2021 post July season.
Closures ending July 31:
Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Lightning Rock, Checkerboard Rock - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Sundance - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
The Book Area: Left Book, The Bookmark, Bookmark Pinnacle, and the entire Book formation (including Renaissance Wall, Isis Buttress, Pages Wall Area, and J-Crack Slab Area)- nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Thunder Buttress and The Parish - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Twin Owls and Rock One - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Cathedral Wall - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
When closed, the closures include the named rock formations and the areas surrounding the base of the formation. This includes all climbing routes, outcroppings, cliffs, faces, ascent and descent routes, and climber's access trails to the formation.
Areas not listed are presumed to be open. These closures will be lifted or extended as conditions dictate.
Upper & Lower Twin Owls, Rock One, The Book and access trail, Bookmark, and Left Book were opened based on a park new release.
Closures have been extended for Thunder Buttress, access trail, The Parish, Cathedral Wall.
Closures above the Loch Vale-Sky Pond trail have been extended.
Per Brent Frazier: the raptor closures have been lifted in the Lumpy Ridge and Loch Vale Areas ( nps.gov/romo/raptor-closure…)
Each year, Rocky Mountain National Park initiates temporary closures in certain areas of the park to ensure that birds of prey will be undisturbed during their breeding and nesting seasons. These closures begin on February 15 and continue through July 31, if appropriate. Monitoring by park staff and volunteers have determined that all remaining closures can be lifted on July 28, 2023.
Per Matt Coghill: the Golden eagle nesting activity has extended Lumpy closures through Aug. 15, 2022 on Sundance, Thunder Buttress, and Needle Summit!
Per A.Eaton: the raptor closures have been lifted as of 6/4/2022 at Lumpy for the following formations:
Twin Owls
Rock One
Batman Rock
Batman Pinnacle
Checkerboard
Lightning Rock
Per the Denver Post: as of Feb. 15, 2022, Checkerboard Rock, Lightning Rock, Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Sundance, Thunder Buttress, The Parish, Bookmark Pinnacle, The Left Book, Bookmark, Twin Owls, Rock One, and the Needle are closed for raptor nesting. These closures will continue through July 31, 2022 if needed.
All areas [were] OPEN to climbing for the 2021 post July season.
Closures ending July 31:
Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Lightning Rock, Checkerboard Rock - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Sundance - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
The Book Area: Left Book, The Bookmark, Bookmark Pinnacle, and the entire Book formation (including Renaissance Wall, Isis Buttress, Pages Wall Area, and J-Crack Slab Area)- nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Thunder Buttress and The Parish - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Twin Owls and Rock One - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Cathedral Wall - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
When closed, the closures include the named rock formations and the areas surrounding the base of the formation. This includes all climbing routes, outcroppings, cliffs, faces, ascent and descent routes, and climber's access trails to the formation.
Areas not listed are presumed to be open. These closures will be lifted or extended as conditions dictate.
Description
:Pear Buttress is one of my favorite 5.8s in the world. It begins roughly where the approach trail ends (take the right-hand branch just before the rock). The climb starts at a clean right-facing flake just right of a broken area. Fifteen feet to the right is the obvious, thinner left-facing flake of the first pitch of Loose Ends.
P1. The flake can be climbed directly from the bottom (5.9 R), but the standard start is to climb up the slab right of the flake and step into it where it offers a perfect hand crack (5.7 with no pro for the first 20 feet). One can avoid all these scary starts (but also some great climbing) by scrambling up around to the left to get on top of the flake. In either case, from the top right side of the flake, follow thin cracks (crux) up to a belay on a sloping ledge.
P2. Follow the ledge up left to the edge of the face, then cut back right into a crack and follow that to a belay on a perfect small ledge (5.4). A much nicer way to do this pitch is to climb the left of two finger cracks (P2 of Loose Ends) off the initial ledge and then step left above; however, this is much harder than anything else on the route.
P3. Follow a perfect hand and finger crack above the belay for 100 feet (5.8), then traverse right under a small roof to a belay on another fine ledge.
There are a couple other ways to do the top part of this pitch. One can traverse along a horizontal break about 20 feet below the roof, then up and into the big Loose Ends corner where a 5.9- move leads to the belay ledge. This is a great way to do the pitch, but as with the variation on pitch two, it bumps the overall route grade up. Or, continue around the left side of the roof leading to some slightly runout 5.8 climbing and eventually easier ground where you can set a belay. I'm not as fond of this last option.
P4 & 5. Above the ledge, wander easily to the Cave area and pick an exit. Standard finishes are the Hurley Traverse or the Cave itself.
P1. The flake can be climbed directly from the bottom (5.9 R), but the standard start is to climb up the slab right of the flake and step into it where it offers a perfect hand crack (5.7 with no pro for the first 20 feet). One can avoid all these scary starts (but also some great climbing) by scrambling up around to the left to get on top of the flake. In either case, from the top right side of the flake, follow thin cracks (crux) up to a belay on a sloping ledge.
P2. Follow the ledge up left to the edge of the face, then cut back right into a crack and follow that to a belay on a perfect small ledge (5.4). A much nicer way to do this pitch is to climb the left of two finger cracks (P2 of Loose Ends) off the initial ledge and then step left above; however, this is much harder than anything else on the route.
P3. Follow a perfect hand and finger crack above the belay for 100 feet (5.8), then traverse right under a small roof to a belay on another fine ledge.
There are a couple other ways to do the top part of this pitch. One can traverse along a horizontal break about 20 feet below the roof, then up and into the big Loose Ends corner where a 5.9- move leads to the belay ledge. This is a great way to do the pitch, but as with the variation on pitch two, it bumps the overall route grade up. Or, continue around the left side of the roof leading to some slightly runout 5.8 climbing and eventually easier ground where you can set a belay. I'm not as fond of this last option.
P4 & 5. Above the ledge, wander easily to the Cave area and pick an exit. Standard finishes are the Hurley Traverse or the Cave itself.
Photos
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