This was my brother's and my first introduction to offwidth climbing.
The first pitch begins right of Orange Julius with a 5.8 hand and fist crack in a dihedral in a chimney. Bring several #3 and #2 Camalots for this section and the crux. Belay 50 feet up when the 5.8 section ends.
The second pitch climbs a wide flared 5.7 crack that peters out on 5.9 terrain into a face. Reach a good hold on the face, and traverse right on slightly runout 5.8 face climbing. The 5.8 traverse on this pitch is the same as the 5.8 traverse on the third pitch of Orange Julius, although it is better protected due to the crack below it. Squeeze up an easy chimney and jam a 5.7 crack to a belay alcove (same belay as on Orange Julius).
From here you can see a 100 foot vertical offwidth to the right; this is the third pitch. Downclimb (easier than you think) to the base of the offwidth, clip a large pin and start climbing. The offwidth starts out in the #2 to #3 Camalot range. The first 40 feet look hard but are only 5.8 due a good crack in the side of the offwidth that can be used as a layback. Get to a stance where you can place some TCUs. Above this the crack widens to #5 Camalot size. 30 feet above this stance is the crux. Slide the #5 up as you go, the crux ends when a good crack can be found on the right that you can place pro in. Here the crack stays wide, but is lower angle and easy to the top, it also has good small-cam protection on the side. This is a good offwidth primer.
Protection
Rossiter's guidebook says bring a couple of #3 and #4 cams for this route. I have to wonder if Rossiter has ever done this route. The crux absolutely requires a #5 Camalot; #4s will not fit.
Nice addition! I was reading your description as I will be up here soon... Curious, is a 4.5 cam adequate for the crux, or do you have to have the 5 with you?
Joe, the first time I went up to do this route I was armed with a #4 Camalot per Rossiter (I think he might even say #4 Friend!). The lobes were barely touching and that was after finding the narrowest spot in the upper crack. A 4.5 would be adequate but not great, a 5 would be perfect (although you will still probably want to slide it up with you). There is also a small RP placement behind a loose flake. After the crux, a good crack inside the offwidth takes excellent pro (and your hands). The whole climb is excellent. In all seriousness, from the bottom of P3 it might be worth doing the 50 foot hand traverse on Orange Julius and then coming back to the belay!
Thanks Charles, just talked to Darin Lang, and he said he might let us borrow his #5... I have a 2 bigbro, but, [I'm] not totally [proficient] at placing those yet! Anyway this route is [definitely] on my 'soon' list as I am just getting back in the swing from an injury...so, thanks for the info! BTW - Darin said you guys had a blast in IC, rock on!
Bring the #5 Camalot unless you're from Colorado Springs and well over 40 years old (in that case a #2 will be adequate). Had the #4.5 on my last ascent and it was pretty tipped out and not inspiring a lot of confidence.
How about if you've just turned 30, live a few hours north of Colorado Springs, and have a rather small set of cahones; do you think a #4 would suffice?
The #5 was very nice to have after I placed the 4.5, although I did end up sliding it up with me for about 30 feet.
By Jackie Blumberg From: some farm near Left Hand, CO Aug 25, 2003
The following are mandatory for doing Hot Licks:
1. #5 Camalot. 2. Swedish belayer
With both of these in your arsenal, you will send, no problem. Not a lot of pure offwidth technique, as the numerous crystals on the right face and within the right crack allow for quasi-face moves. You just hump your way up the "arete" that is formed by the right side of the wide crack.
As Patrick suggested, I would bring 2 #2 Camalots and 2 #3 Camalots for the first pitch. My partner managed to leap-frog gear, but I wouldn't want to wish such a lead on anybody. I was fairly psyched to get a good orange TCU at the top of the crack on pitch 2 before the traverse. Walking the #5 is the way to go for pitch 3...unless you are soloing.
This is a great climb. I did the first two pitches as one (i.e., the fist crack and the 5.8 traverse) and belayed from a good stance at the base of the wide flare at the end of the traverse. This worked out very well. The OW is super fun and well protected with a #5 (as suggested) and supplemental TCUs on the right side.
By Leo Paik Administrator From: Westminster, Colorado Jun 14, 2006
As S. Kimball wrote, "a route with a little bit of everything." For P1, perhaps some larger hexes (a.k.a. gull whackers to Brits) in addition to double #2 & #3 Camalots (since it stays fairly wide) might be useful. P2 is a blast! For P3, there are few mandatory OW moves since you can face climb, lieback, jam, stem, and even use face holds inside the crack. There are great rests on P3. P4 60m cruise to the top. Great route!
This is a climb worth repeating. Great jams. Delicate face moves and finally some off-widthing on P3. Not for someone looking to break into 5.9 but it is to be recommended for someone looking for moderate off-width climbing, as the section requiring true OW form is short. I carried an old style 4.5 Camalot and a new, C3 #5 Camalot. Slid the 4.5 as far as comfortable. Then slid the #5 up the widening crack as far as I could without going to umbrella mode but I was about a body length above it while pulling the crux moves, and 15 feet or more out at the next good rest.
My partner was well protected walking a BD C4 #6 cam through the crux. When the angle lessens the crack is wider than #6, but he got nuts and small cams in. Fun route.
I second that...if you own a #6 camalot or a #6 wild country bring it. the number five tipped out as i got a green alien in a small fissure. I walked the cam as far as i could. with a 70 meter rope you can make this into 2 pitches.
Used #5 Camalot (old style) then #1 RP on right wall (not totally bomber but seemed worth placing) above that before placing the good gear that comes after the OW crux on P3; nice juxtaposition of gear sizes. I wore shorts-don't do that!
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