Mountain Project: Climbing Lumpy Ridge

Nearly 1000 feet high, the best cliff (along with the Book) at Lumpy Ridge, but because of the long approach it sees relatively little traffic. Classics of all grades and types of climbing, including Kor's Flake (5.7), Mainliner (5.9), Turnkorner (5.10a), and Whiteman (5.11). To descend from all but the west-most routes, scramble along the top to a steep fourth-class gully that leads NE. The gully begins at the saddle between the Turnkorner Buttress (the steep, rounded section of cliff most visible on the approach) and the Guillotine Wall, an immense section of cliff which is not visible for most of the approach, but which can be seen clearly divided from the Turnkorner Buttress by a prominent chimney system when one stands in front of the rock. Downclimb the gully very carefully, or make several rappels from trees. Then follow the steep, brushy hillside (really a larger gully) around to the base of the rock.

Getting There

Sundance is the western most formation on the ridge; hike west from the new parking lot ~0.6 miles to the Black Canyon trail from the old Twins Owls parking lot past the Book turnoff, through the cow fence, into the woods, and then keep a sharp lookout for a cairn marking the approach path on the right side of the trail (there is no sign). If you miss it, you'll be faced with a nauseating bushwhack straight uphill. Expect 1 1/4 to 1 1/2 hours.

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Sundance Buttress:

Cajun Capers 5.7 R Trad, 6 pitches, 1100 feet, Grade III

Kor's Flake 5.7 Trad, 6 pitches, 900 feet, Grade III

Eumenides 5.8 Trad, 6 pitches, 1000 feet, Grade III

Grapevine 5.8+ Trad, 6 pitches, Grade III

Betwixt'em 5.9 Trad, 5 pitches, 550 feet, Grade III

Sidetrack 5.9 Trad, 6 pitches, 900 feet, Grade III

Mainliner 5.9 Trad, 5 pitches, 700 feet, Grade III

Turnkorner 5.10a Trad, 7 pitches, Grade III

The Nose 5.10b Trad, 7 pitches, 1050 feet, Grade III

Bonzo 5.10 Trad, 1 pitch

Slim Pickens 5.10 Trad, 6 pitches, 700 feet

Idiot Wind 5.10c Trad, 7 pitches, 1050 feet

The Guillotine 5.10c Trad, 5 pitches, Grade III

Progression 5.10c Trad, 5 pitches

Chain of Command 5.11a Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 110 feet

Whiteman 5.11c Trad, 2 pitches

Featured Route For Sundance Buttress

Whiteman goes up the thin flake system until you can traverse left to the flip-flop dihedral system.

Whiteman 5.11c CO : Lumpy Ridge : Sundance Buttress

On the buttress between Guillotine and Mainliner are several flake/crack lines that are climbable. Whiteman takes the right-most of these. Look up; you're heading for the base of a beautiful, changing corners pitch.P1 5.11c - Climb flakes and cracks, protecting with small wires and stoppers. Clip two bolts for the traverse to the belay in the bottom of the crack.P2 5.11 - Climb the changing corners to thed top....[more] Browse More Classics in CO

Comments on Sundance Buttress

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By Anonymous Coward
Apr 29, 2002

There is not a pebble at Lumpy Ridge not worth climbing. The rock is superb, especially the Sundance Buttress. A mostly flat trail through a beautiful valley to some of the biggest rocks and highest quality granite in the state might be too much if one is accustomed to pulling plastic. Some climbers climb for the absolute love of it. Some climbers climb because they think it makes them look cool. Lumpy is for the former.

Headlamps are useful if you ever have to come down in the dark.

By Anonymous Coward
Jul 19, 2004

Descent info:

An easy descent if climbing anything from Grapevine and to the left: walk easily to the summit of Sundance and go to the east, drop down slabs between opposing corners for maybe 50 feet and spot a rappel from a tree to the climber's left. Rap 100 feet to the ground, then downclimb a short 10' wall to the trail. Follow trail until it peters out in a boulder field. Boulder hop for a ways and pick up trail again, following it until it wraps around the bottom of Sundance and meets up with the approach trail.

By jason seaver
Jun 13, 2005

The line left of Guillotine is Bosch Cassidy and The Sundance Kid. Most of the bolts are missing. It's possible to toprope the first pitch off the chain anchors left of Guillotine 160-170 feet up.Topher D established the route, placing the bolts on lead, but someone was apparently threatened by its existence and chopped it.

By flynn
3 days ago

The trail to Sundance, and the climbers' descent route (can't call it a trail) in that godawful gully, were the projects for the Access Fund's Adopt-A-Crag Day this October. Fifty-some logs and eighty-some rock steps went in, along with some long-needed "barbering" of the brush in the gully. Should be a lot better.

If you're a first-time visitor to Sundance, be advised that there's now a sign to direct you in lieu of the old cairn. It's actually been there for several years now.

Have fun!

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Sundance Buttress

Description

Getting There

The Classics