This area has access issues. Please read the details below.
BETA PHOTO: A gloomy winter day riding around wishing I was cl...
Description
I hesitate to write about Lumpy, I grew up spending my summers in Estes Park, and started my climbing career 7 years ago at Lumpy. Since then I have seen it grow immensely in popularity, and is headed the way of Eldo (i.e. crowded as hell) however this growth is mainly from the weekend warriors, on the weekday climbing is more reasonable.
Lumpy is awesome, the climbs are moderately long, two to five pitches on average, and take place in a spectacular setting with views of Longs and RMNP. The climbs are spread out on a number of unique formations, the most popular being The Book. Sundance, far at the end of the ridge, is the tallest cliff at 700-800' and has awesome classic climbing with a long approach that deters the lazier climbers.
The climbing at Lumpy is interesting. I have always felt it to be quite stiff. Pushing the grades here in the 5.10 and 5.11 range often requires fiddling with tricky pro on less than vertical flared cracks while fighting a heinous calf pump. The pitches tend to be full length and take place on highly technical granite that requires solid footwork. There aren't too many beginner climbs here, Lumpy climbing is concentrated in the 5.9-5.11 range. That said there are a few classic outings in the 5.5-5.8 range. These include:
Climbing in the 5.9-5.10 range opens up tons of classics, these are a very few. J-Crack (.9, spicy with a runout 5.8 traverse, time tested classic), Loose Ends (.9 awesome), George's Tree (.9, very typical Lumpy climbing), Mainliner (.9-, DO THIS CLIMB), Orange Julius (.10a, varied climbing), Climb of the Ancient Mariner (.10a classic face), Fat City (.10+ famous classic, a sandbag), Cheap Date (.10a) and Outlander (.10+), great finish to routes like Pear Buttress and J-Crack ), Gollum's Arch (.10a, sandbagged and sustained with many different sizes on it). In the 5.11 range, almost every route is good, yet many are tricky to protect as they are thin seams and faint features. Stretch Marks (.11a, a little scary), Living Dead (.11b, very finicky protection), Backbone Arete (.11c, a well bolted yet very hard slab), Finger Lickin' Good (.11a), Corner Pump Station (.11c). I haven't done these two, yet they, obviously belong on this list.
For those with minimal time to spare, Little Twin Owls has good toproping with a classic Finger Crack (.11) that should not be missed. There is good bouldering just before Little Twin Owls, and just after the turnoff for The Book. Two good routes for the solid .10 trad leader are on Checkerboard Rock, a fifteen minute approach. These climbs are Ziggy's Day Out (.10+) and Checkerboard Crack (.10b), both these routes are short and require a lot of skill at placing pro. Checkerboard Crack is classic Lumpy climbing, flared, insecure, sustained, and very hard to protect.
Getting There
Take US 36 to Estes, head across the lake and go straight at the first stoplight you meet. At the second stoplight, head straight, the road curves left here and passes the Stanley Hotel. Take a right 1/4 mile after the Stanley on Devil's Gulch Road. Head straight on this road for a mile or so (Lumpy Ridge should be quite obvious in front of you) until it begins to curve right. When it curves right, there will be a wooden gate that says McGregor Ranch. Take the road through the gate for a half mile, to the Lumpy Ridge parking lot.
The new trailhead will be located east of the Twin Owls Trailhead just off MacGregor Ave. The gravel access road lies just west of the Gem Lake Trailhead. This will result in an additional 0.7 miles to formations west of Twin Owls. This will shorten access to crags east of Twin Owls. Happy hiking.
Seasonal Closures
Note, some of these cliffs are often closed (Mar 3 - July 31) for raptor nesting. These include Twin Owls, Rock One, Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Bat Flake, Lightning Rock, Checkerboard Rock, Thunder Buttress, The Parish, Alligator Rock. Sometimes closures are lifted early. Check the notices closely.
Trail Realignment
There appears to be a line of cord uphill/north of the old Black Canyon Trail. It is likely the new trail location as part of the changes to be made with the land deal swap/reversal of easements (which includes the new parking lot to the east).
New Trailhead
There is a new, 100-car, paved trailhead for Lumpy Ridge. The old Twin Owls trailhead is in the process of being reverted closer to its former state. The new trailhead adds on 0.6 miles to routes from Twin Owls and west (Batman, Book, Pear, Sundance, etc.) Note, for those new to the area, the trail listed as Black Canyon Trail is used to access The Book, The Pear, Sundance etc.) The water source at the old Twin Owls lots is still on as of 7/07.
Obscure bit
This was called Thataa-ai-atah by Arapaho Indians which means "little lumps".
This is an excellent pitch to the left of [Thindependence]. It takes an elegant thin crack next to an arete and has a fixed pin 30 feet up. A first crux (.11a) is encountered just of the ground and is a tad on the hairy side (10 feet up, bad pro). A second crux (.10+) is encountered after the pin on delicate liebacking and is well protected. Follow some 5.9 cracks after the arete peters out up to the second pitch on [Pear Buttress]. This rou...[more]
Food for thought: Having a chat with one of the park's rangers one day, we asked him what climb/area produces the most injuries/ accidents. His response was that 70% of the injuries he knew of in recent years occur on "J crack," mostly due to the minimally protected traverse. Be safe out there, and protect the second.
Yeah, you out with the exposure and all. I was up on the J crack when a terrible lightning storm broke out, and it's not easy to back off of, so be careful. Don't miss this route for the world though, it is my favorite in Colorado.
I visited Lumpy for the first time last week, and it is BEAUTIFUL!! However, I do have one concern. While climbing Pear Buttress we encountered a rappel station at the end of the second pitch (at the big ledge just before the finger crack pitch) composed of 2 nuts superglued to the rock and equalized with chains. We saw this again in the first pitch of Melvin's Wheel, only this time, we could easily remove one of the nuts. Now that's scary! If the climb is difficult enough to require a permanent rap station, wouldn't a set of bolted rings be more appropriate? I realize bolting is by hand only in Rocky Mtn. National Park, but it would surely be easier and safer than this arrangement. Or, perhaps it may not even need a permanent rap station.
Labor Day Weekend '95. Just putting on our boots at when the climber on J Crack took a ground fall. Broke both tibia and fibula on his right leg. Took 4 of us and the Rangers' second team 6 hours to get him down. Yes, be especially careful.
Yeah the I could see how you could get hert on the J crack that traverse has no pro. And if you come of you pendulum a good 15 feet talk about rock burn.
Only one amendment, this guy says that Lumpy has gone the way of Eldo (i.e. crowded as hell). This could not be further from the truth. Lumpy may be more crowded now than ten years ago, but, it still is far less crowded than any other five star granite area I've seen. Sure, White Whale, or Pear Buttress may have one or two parties on them on a sunny Saturday, but you can stroll up to almost any route, on almost any day and see no one. Don't let this guy scare you away with negative comments. If you want to see a crowded crag, saunter through the Gunks on a Sunday in September, you'll probably be pawning your rack on Ebay.
By Charles Vernon From: I'm in transition right now Dec 12, 2001
No, he says that Lumpy is headed the way of Eldo...it isn't there yet, but the Book is getting pretty damn crowded on summer weekends. On weekdays in the spring and fall, however, you might get a whole rock for yourself.
1) Don't be the one to add anchors on Lumpy, especially in the area the previous guy is talking about. Many people bail early from the second pitch area of Loose Ends/Pear Buttress. This is the top out for Thindependence, Toot, and a few others. There are plenty of gear options for people to play with. Top out or lose gear to the guys/cougars who climb the next day...or are just getting off work. Again, let the locals deal with the fixed anchor issues. (I am not a local, anymore)
2) #2 Ed's Cantina. Enough said.
3) If you think it is too crowded...try hitting the full moon in warmer weather. Take a headlamp and enjoy. I have yet to have to wait for anyone.
4) Work at the YMCA before you get a real job. This will allow you to really hit RMNP hard and find all the Cougars you need in a summer.
About J-crack: the traverse can be protected using double ropes. I set a piece pretty high in the RH crack, then move back down a bit, traverse, and clip the first few pieces in the LH crack on the other rope. Much safer, and no rope drag whatsoever! Double ropes are the way to go.
In my opinion, the best climbs in the ridge are [Stretch] Marks, George's Tree, Batman and Robin, and Kor's Flake (which is got to be the most exposed climb in Lumpy). Does anyone know of internships for CMS this next summer? Nate
Lumpy Ridge is where it's at. Nested in the outcroppings of mother nature. This is a place to be safe and get your groove on. If you need any climbing stuff or a coffee stop in the downtown (Mexican restuarant and the climbing shop next to it, nice wall guys! Rock on). If you want to climb right next to Mother Nature, this is the place. It feels like your on top of the world when your chillin' on the Ridge. Nice hike up to most of the climbing. This is a must for scenery and good climbing, too. Beginner routes to expert routes, it's all there to play on. Don't forget what you pack in, pack out.
or "if you have any questions about this matter, or if you would like to obtain a hardcopy of the FONSI (Finding of No Significant Impact) , please contact Larry Gamble, the park's Chief of Planning and Compliance. He can be reached at (970) 586-1320."
Does anyone have any suggestions on places to camp? Either established camp sites where I can pitch a tent or a place where I can legally pull my car off to the side and park for the night? Preferably a place where I don't have to spend $$...
By Leo Paik Administrator From: Westminster, Colorado Feb 9, 2004
Estes can be amazing in the winter. This Saturday there was an afternoon window warm enough to boulder in jeans & a shirt and actually sweat. Clear skies, protected S-facing rock, and no snow at the base req'd. Moooo.
As someone who does a bit of rebolting work with the ASCA I would just like to say that Greg, Chris, etc. run a very ethical organization. I can tell you first hand that people like Greg, who probably replaces 100-200 bolts, or more, per year, is doing this gratis. Luckily his girlfriend has a truck since his truck has had a blown head gasket for a long time.
And, not to downplay the efforts made in rebolting single pitch routes, the ASCA has been responsible for rebolting many multi-pitch routes in areas such as Yosemite and Red Rocks. The amount of effort to drag all that gear up many, many pitches and climb then re-bolt routes is staggering. It makes big wall climbing seem trivial.
Please do not stop contributing to the ASCA because of one bad apple. Greg, Chris, et al. are doing a great service to the climbing community. It is a thankless job that is in need of your support to keep it happening (www.safeclimbing.org).
First of all Eli is out of town and probably would like to be part of this discussion. I will leave that up to him and to respond to the bolt issue on the parking lot rock.
As far as the route King Tut goes- I drilled the one protection bolt that is on the slab 1/2 between Ramses and Cat Dancing. The route is a little bit of a sqeeze but is a great route and to climb it directly without the bolt would put the leader into ledge fall territory. I tried to lead it group up but backed off. WE cleaned much rock off of the overlaps, much of it being very loose and poorly protectable. There are some other overlaps to the right but still to the left of Ramses that Jason may have climbed or he may have climbed the same route. The fact that we claimed a new route may have been premature and if you have climbed this entire route prior to 3/04 let this site know and you can name it., grade it etc... chop the bolt if you think it is unessecary. Just trying to get cool new routes up! As far as the anchor goes. It is a convenience anchor. I see no problem with that. 99% percent of the bolted anchors at Lumpy are convenience anchors. One could always climb choss to the top and walk off. Or rap off slings around horns that litter the area and are eye sores. (I know bolts are eye sores to some, but generally they are considered lower visual impact) If you want to jump on a band wagon, jump on one that is going to allow the park to build and brand new trail only 300 feet above the exisiting one.
AC, the pitch you were on used to be the first pitch of Bosch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid, it was chopped quite a few years ago. The bolts you saw and clipped are some that have been replaced by locals in an effort to fix up the route.
The previous post is an imposter, [Eds. it has been deleted] FYI I have returned to Summit County for the winter and have not had a chance to chime in for a while. I also just had knee surgery last Tuesday so will not be able to climb for a little bit.
I do however know of the arete that the fake CC is talking about and I too believe this would be a great clip up pretty close to the car, well I guess it used to be close to the car. Hey fake CC, get some bolts in that thing, it is a pretty sweet line.
May I suggest top roping it a bunch first and then talking to Laurence Stumpke about the best place for the clippies. He has a good eye for bolting aretes.
Hello to all the Estes Folk, and I hope you are having fun in the snow.
Sorry to be the bearer of bad tidings. However, the battle was lost in 2003 and the NEW and improved Twin Owls / Gem Lake trail head and parking lot will be opened this coming summer 2007.
Construction is well underway; with the access road, parking areas, storm drain improvements and pit toilet foundation in their later phases of construction. I have heard that the new climber access trail that joins the new parking lot to the old one is also taking shape.
The NPS is planning to pave and complete the project by early summer. Once completed the old lot will be taken 'off line' and the earth reclaimed, and I assume the access closed. (sans emergency vehicles and NPS employees).
So, don't be surprised this summer when your outing to The Book or Sundance includes an extra 1.5 miles for your round trip day. But at least the outhouse won't make your eyes burn.
The NEW LUMPY RIDGE PARKING LOT is nearly complete. It is expected to open within the next 6 weeks. Once open the old Lumpy lot as well as the old Gem Lake trailhead roadside parking will be closed. The new lot will add .7 miles to your one-way hike to all points west (Batman, Book, Sundance, etc.). To access the lot, proceed east on Devils Gulch Road from the old MacGregor Ranch road turn off. A new paved road with NPS signs will be obvious on your left (north). The good news is that there will be a new shithouse -- cuz nobody will miss the old one. There will be no further public access through the Ranch. The memorial water fountain at the old lot-site will remain in service.
The latest word from the NPS trailcrew is that the new parking lot will not be open until probably mid-June as there have been some delays with construction- thus the old parking lot will be open until that time.
I'm on the RMNP trail crew and the new lot is still to open Memorial weekend, as long as the weather accommodates the pouring of the lot tomorrow.
A few other things to clear up, the new trail is officially 0.7 miles long, I just GPS'ed it for the park. The fencing and gates are also being reconstructed; this should help with the wandering cattle.
This new parking lot is a must, by 945am Friday the Ranch lot was full. Yesterday the Gem Lake lot was over capacity by 11am.
7th Annual Lumpy Trails Day at Lumpy Ridge, Rocky Mountain National Park, Estes Park, Colorado. The Central Rockies Section of the AAC will be hosting a trail improvement day at Lumpy Ridge in Estes Park, Colorado. This project is in conjunction with the Access Fund ‘Adopt-A-Crag’ program. A full day is scheduled on Sunday, October 14th. Interested persons should register early by emailing event organizer Greg Sievers at gsievers57@cs.com, or calling 970-586-4075. Only those registered will receive a free lunch at the work site and T-shirt. The group will meet at 7:30am at the Estes Park Town Hall parking lot on MacGregor Ave (downtown next to the police dept. and behind the library) where coffee and donuts will be provided. National park staff will supply tools and transportation to the trailhead. Volunteers should bring gloves, plenty of water, dress appropriately and are encouraged to stay for the full day (but part day help is very welcome). All volunteers in attendance at 4pm will be eligible for gifts and raffle items that are sure to please and thrill. A good turnout will prove that ‘climbers’ are good stewards of the land and considerate users but also proactive about our interaction with one of this countries largest land management agencies. This year’s goals include work on the badly eroded “Batman Rock” approach trail. In 2005 this event won the Access Fund’s “Adopt-a-Crag of the year award”. Be part of this energetic proactive event and the beauty of splitter Lumpy granite.
Anyone want to go climb at Lumpy tomorrow? I am visiting my girlfriend and would love to check out this spot. I am a strong climber. If I do not feel comfortable leading a route, then I can guarantee I can follow. I could also be persuaded to go to the Monastary, so I am also flexible. Hopefully someone out there in this world has time to climb.
Lumpy Ridge
Printer Friendly View
RSS Feed
