Note 1: Bernard Gillett's guidebook shows a route named Stegosaurus (5.9R, one bolt) at this location. It is not known if "CG's Naked Fun Time" is a retro-bolted version of Stegosaurus or if they are different climbs.
Note 2: This could become a dangerous climb, as there are a number of loose flakes on the route, including one that could certainly cut your rope in 2 if it were pulled off, seems fairly lodged but does move quite a bit, there may be an 'X' still visible, if not, the flake in question is located just between bolt 3 and 4 to the right of the bolt line, be very careful not to pull this down onto your belayer as there could be bad consequences !!!
This route is located just downhill from "Unknown V" and the 2 obvious pine trees. The first bolt is located just below an obvious undercling, fairly chalked. From here the climbing climbs straight up. This route is considered to be PG-13 as a fall after the 2nd bolt may be a long one, with a couple loose flakes in between. Be careful to pull down and not out. I think this route is a good example of someone who was a little 'anxious' to bolt a route without properly preparing the route, removing dangerous flakes which can be pulled off on the lead. It would be a good idea to remove these flakes in the future so nobody gets hurt, especially belayers. This route is a 'BOMB' in my opinion, especially because of the laziness of the bolt equipper. See for yourself when you are there. Cheers.
Protection
4 bolts - 2 bolt anchor.
Location
This route is located just downhill from "Unknown V" and the 2 obvious pine trees.
I am not quite sure of the history of this route, but in Gillett's book, it is named 'Stegosaurus' and is rated at 5.9. I have climbed this enjoyable little route about 6 times over the last few weeks. Apparently, the route is named CG's Naked Fun Time. I would say this route definitely goes at 5.10a/b, depending on moves used.
I would also add that the route has fairly diverse moves, and after the 2nd bolt, is pretty consistent in the 5.10a/b grade. I recommend this climb for its somewhat challenging nature and the enjoyability of the moves. The route is shaded in the morning 'til noon, and again, in the evening.
By Julius Beres From: Boulder, CO Aug 23, 2008 rating: 5.9+
Someone should fix the anchor at the top of this route!
If I had rope or webbing with me, I would have done it, but we left due to rain.
At the top, there are 2 bolts with rap rings that look solid. I imagine someone wanted to avoid having the rope go over the edge, so they tied rope (7mm rope in loops I think) to the bolts and extended it to two more rap rings over the edge. The problem:
They tied the rope in a loop going through both bolts and the rap rings so it forms a triangle. That greatly increases the force on the bolts because of the added opposing horizontal force generated.
Either it should be done with multiple loops and a sliding X or separate loops from each bolt to the rap rings.
I imagine even with the force multiplication it is ok for rappelling, but if someone were to clip into the lower rap rings or the slings for top roping, it would be an incredibly bad setup.
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